chrysalis

today was my maiden voyage on my velzy jacobs. i was so excited when i hit the sand, i felt i should think about my breathing. when i got to the beach i snapped a picture and then suited up. there were these aqua lines of energy transitioning to nothingness that were screaming at me. "put your board on us!"

balance.
i snapped this picture just before i waxed her up. click on it enlarge it , and look at that peeler out the back.
i was literally laughing after EVERY one of my waves today. this board surfs itself. i am entering into a new understanding of interface between surfer, board and wave.
beautiful evening.
my first wave was a head dip. strangers were commenting on the "glide" of this board. i am shocked at this board's performance. i had so much adrenaline rushing through my veins when i was first paddling out, it felt like i had just narrowly missed having a catastrophic car accident or something...that feeling lasted my entire session. hence my lack of material in this post. it was a mental gymnasium. i still can't believe i have such a board, and the board is one of the most functional and intuitive surf craft I have ever had under my feet.