


I have been out of town for the past 2 weeks. I have been mentally surfing this board that entire time. My first session today was like a theoretical math problem. I was so psyched to surf the board I forgot my wet suit. I would have been arrested for sure had I not had a pair of trunks with me. My guess is the boys at trestles wouldn’t take kindly to a naked pig rider sharing their waves. My first wave felt super awkward. I am used to surfing a pig. I thought I kind of knew how this board was going to go. Perhaps it was my time out of the water, or perhaps it was the design of the board. Whatever the case, it felt like the board was pushing water. My second wave wasn’t much better. I still couldn’t find the sweet spot and I corked the rail so bad I had to swim! By now I was getting up in my head. I just sat around looking at all the bobbers that wish they had the courage to ride the proper board for the day. On my 3rd wave something clicked. Finally in the following waves I felt all the nuances that contribute to that glide that makes the pig the functional surf craft it is. I think the key to my breakthrough was kicking back and listening to the board instead of trying to push my expectations on it. This board RULES!! I am so psyched!