Thursday, March 18, 2010

to surf

i surfed after work yesterday. something about what my life has been like just recently made last night's session feel different. it was a warm evening. i feel like surfing's meaning has changed so many times in my life. at times it feels like such a selfish masturbation. other times, it feels like a societal normalizing factor that I owe my community (therapy of sorts, i seem to make better decisions when i surf frequently). last night it felt like surfing. wave riding. that got me PSYCHED.
i shot the first pic right as i was walking up with my phone. richard holcombe shot the other.

1 comment:

  1. Amen to that, brother. Wait until you've got that youngin in your life. Surfing's meaning(s) will change again. Surfing is also a time machine. A way to get back to the sensations (the bright colors, the first duckdive, the salt and surfwax smell) of our youth...simpler times.