i surfed after work yesterday. something about what my life has been like just recently made last night's session feel different. it was a warm evening. i feel like surfing's meaning has changed so many times in my life. at times it feels like such a selfish masturbation. other times, it feels like a societal normalizing factor that I owe my community (therapy of sorts, i seem to make better decisions when i surf frequently). last night it felt like surfing. wave riding. that got me PSYCHED.
i shot the first pic right as i was walking up with my phone. richard holcombe shot the other.
Amen to that, brother. Wait until you've got that youngin in your life. Surfing's meaning(s) will change again. Surfing is also a time machine. A way to get back to the sensations (the bright colors, the first duckdive, the salt and surfwax smell) of our youth...simpler times.
ReplyDelete