i surfed after work yesterday. something about what my life has been like just recently made last night's session feel different. it was a warm evening. i feel like surfing's meaning has changed so many times in my life. at times it feels like such a selfish masturbation. other times, it feels like a societal normalizing factor that I owe my community (therapy of sorts, i seem to make better decisions when i surf frequently). last night it felt like surfing. wave riding. that got me PSYCHED.
i shot the first pic right as i was walking up with my phone. richard holcombe shot the other.