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the tide was just right to find all kind of gems.

morning commute.
sunrise.
perfect little mini grinder!
obligatory A frame!!!
always there.
colors
blues
red
purple
green
green
and more green
how is maddog's midget?!!!!!

surfing with a friend is fun

shredded with smukes today. SICK. friends are good. its something i don't really think about. i am always happy to do my thing...walk down the trail and surf ...chill with the usual suspects...but to show up with a friend you haven't surfed with in a while, is a entirely different experience. smukes brought the "aloha spirit" with him too. we scored. it was a super fun day. i had this one great wave ...i pulled my camera out and was STOKED. I was deep in the critical part of the wave, pulled up into a beautiful pit. it was nicely lit, the lip threw out a blocked the sun for a second. it was sureal .. to hold the camera and be dealing with a heaving pit on my blackboard was intense to say the least...i was so stoked. i couldn't wait to see how it looked on video... i finish the wave laughing because of how sick of a barrel i just got...and to think it was on video! i check the camera...it wasn't on. CLASSIC. its shit like that that makes me laugh at myself. i am just PUMPED i didn't blow the wave fucking around with some piece of technology.

there were a lot of dolphins today.

to surf

i surfed after work yesterday. something about what my life has been like just recently made last night's session feel different. it was a warm evening. i feel like surfing's meaning has changed so many times in my life. at times it feels like such a selfish masturbation. other times, it feels like a societal normalizing factor that I owe my community (therapy of sorts, i seem to make better decisions when i surf frequently). last night it felt like surfing. wave riding. that got me PSYCHED.

i shot the first pic right as i was walking up with my phone. richard holcombe shot the other.

just another day.

surfline was calling 5-7 and good today. that had the parking lot full early. super classic. last night, in the middle of the night, i woke up to relieve myself...i heard the waves breaking. that only happens when its big and off shore, or when its still wind and super quite out. given the forecast and the fact it was a friday night... i thought it was going to have a little push today. not so...it was another one of those days when the short boarders are walking back up pre-dawn style. i was stoked...super stoked. my first wave was great. its days like this that remind me how lucky i am to have the life i do.

some times a log is the right equipment for the job.

today was a grand day at sliders for the likes of a pig. it was pig slide city!! when i was walking down this morning I saw a bunch of potato chip thruster sheeple walking back up. it got me a wee bit un-nerved. fortunately the birds were singing and the sun was shining. i knew it was going to be a good day for sliding sliders point. there is a condition that the ocean has every now and again..when the ocean says very clearly "ye shall ride the log and enjoy it!!!" it was just small enough to fu(k the thruster kids, but still enough push to hold the rail in. it was a day where you fade left , set the tail, walk up and perch...right into the nuclear void. its like you ride a magic carpet into the sun. the people on thrusters were ass wiggling there way to somewhere, while i...on a proper log, was levitating. it was a day of curl shoots, head dips, cover ups, and nose rides. ...thank you.

new years eve. surf a pig STYLE!!!!

I surfed with fitz today. he is friends with the dude from daily bread. radical. it was a lazy day out there. kind of fat with the tide. but...with patience...there were a few fun ones. I got to set up off the bottom of one and line up for a NICE head dip curl shoot thingy...followed up with a cut back. NICE!! there is this bird that has been chilling with me lately. i shot a video of him earlier this week and another one of him today. the one i shot today is one of those log burning videos again. something about it though. the sound of waves crashing...and this bird just chilling out on a nice beach...works for me.

sliders this morning

today was a beautiful day out in the water. it was cold, small and inconsistent. every once in a while a clean little waist to chest high wave would peel through. perfect pig slide. i shot this pic and this video before i paddled out. this COOPERFISH BLACKBOARD is so enjoyable to ride. it has a quick trim and an amazing turn. it is constantly surprising me. the 15 3/4" nose on this prototype gives me so much maneuverability when I am up there. 

miles sent me some more pix!!!

sliders point, cooperfish black board, friends to surf with...a good day!

mile's took some pix yesterday!!! thanks miles!!

surfing is fun.

COOPERFISH BLACKBOARD session 2!!

I surfed this for 2 and half hours this morning. NICE!!! I am getting this new board dialed in. It is super fast and turns INSANE!!!! I am so STOKED. I hear a certain enthusiasm in Gene's voice when we are discussing design elements and modifications for the second prototype. This board I have under my feet is UNREAL. I am amazed at how quickly and effortlessly this thing turns. It trims super fast.

COOPERFISH BLACKBOARD maiden voyage.

After a crazy gnarly week, I am beginning my holiday break. I'll take it. The surf was clean, inconsistent and small today, a fat tide. I barely noticed it. I was so super stoked to get in the water. Its nice to surf with friends. This board is a wild ride. I am dying for more time on it. My buddy Miles was out with me today. He shot some pix with his waterproof camera. I saw them , some of them are beautiful. I'll post them up when he gets them to me. JAZZ THE GLASS!!!

I needed this.

It was a tuff week for Mr and Mrs Black. Tonight's sliders session was bitter sweet. My BING was perfect for the conditions. I was surfing well. I couldn't help but think about our loss. Every good wave I had made me wish I hadn't suffered our loss. It was a strange feeling.


I love this life.