shredded with smukes today. SICK. friends are good. its something i don't really think about. i am always happy to do my thing...walk down the trail and surf ...chill with the usual suspects...but to show up with a friend you haven't surfed with in a while, is a entirely different experience. smukes brought the "aloha spirit" with him too. we scored. it was a super fun day. i had this one great wave ...i pulled my camera out and was STOKED. I was deep in the critical part of the wave, pulled up into a beautiful pit. it was nicely lit, the lip threw out a blocked the sun for a second. it was sureal .. to hold the camera and be dealing with a heaving pit on my blackboard was intense to say the least...i was so stoked. i couldn't wait to see how it looked on video... i finish the wave laughing because of how sick of a barrel i just got...and to think it was on video! i check the camera...it wasn't on. CLASSIC. its shit like that that makes me laugh at myself. i am just PUMPED i didn't blow the wave fucking around with some piece of technology.
there were a lot of dolphins today.