...when I am looking at that footage from Cape St. Francis , the action of your board on such a perfect wave..for me it seemed like the board fit that wave so perfectly for a clean beautiful feeling of surfing. Not aggravated surfing.
that wave was pretty nice. I think you can have anything on it and have it go nice.
but look at the space of it ... where it fits in the curl and what is happening.
i didn't do anything. I just stood there.
yea, but that is doing everything. to not do anything and to have it fit so perfectly is everything. I am thinking its because of the design elements of this board.