Saturday, January 9, 2010

just another day.

surfline was calling 5-7 and good today. that had the parking lot full early. super classic. last night, in the middle of the night, i woke up to relieve myself...i heard the waves breaking. that only happens when its big and off shore, or when its still wind and super quite out. given the forecast and the fact it was a friday night... i thought it was going to have a little push today. not was another one of those days when the short boarders are walking back up pre-dawn style. i was stoked...super stoked. my first wave was great. its days like this that remind me how lucky i am to have the life i do.

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