Wednesday, March 31, 2010


thinking about this wave....the anticipation of it...the satisfaction you would get from surfing it...that is not twaddle, nor is it drivel, nor is it gobbledygook, nay bunkum, nay poppycock, nay piffle.
if i were on the wave below i would not be in a state of tumult, nor would i be in a fracas state, nor would i be thinking of starting a it with out saying... i would not be feeling any bedlam.
i love surfing nice waves on a board i understand. surfers are some of the luckiest beings on the planet.

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