so my buddy paddles up to me today and says: "dude you BLEW it...yesterday morning...and then again today at the crack...where were you?!" i replied : "feeding dogs and making chocolate milk for my wife". he then said "dude you should call you blog' the narcissistic pig' " ... he has a point. i figured with friends like this...who needs more friends? ...i love my friends. i NEED my friends. good friends are the best ego checks. you can't buy that shit.
i still caught a few..even though i REALLY MISSED IT. YOU SOULD HAVE BEEN HERE YES-TAR-DAY!! i had one of those sessions where i was totally relaxed and just happy to be alive out in the ocean on a board i love and trust. my first wave was nuts. it swang wide ...the pocket was made for my board. it made my week. then i got a few more. one was a great wave for cut backs. i managed to squeek out two cutbacks that felt right on this one peeler.
i was speaking to one of my buddies out in the water today. i was talking to him about life's priorities. i was speaking about how my life is going through a priority shift right now. how good it feels. it occurred to me then, that life is like a garden and life's passions are like the garden's various plants... one plant might catch your attention longer or more intensely than others...however..there are other beautiful fruit bearing plants in the garden...what about them?
surfing is one of those pursuits in life that will save your life and hinder your life simultaneously.
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