apparently this is a shot from the beachie i grew up surfing. this is RARE form for my beloved beach. i haven't surfed there in DECADES. fuck! am I growing in experiences!!! i would LOVE to be out there on my pig. when this spot does what it's doing here...you get served a significant pounding trying to pull it. whatever... that moment before the pounding, or the ones you make...you can't buy that feeling.
Firing! Where is this? By the lack of crowd and wide, low-tide beach, I'm going to guess it's a secret...
ReplyDeleteNick O.
ReplyDeleteThis spot gets crowded. I guess it's just "one of those days".