Saturday, October 4, 2014

rabbit's fin

i first met rabbit and junko a few years ago. they came to california for a surf trip. rabbit had a hurt ankle but he walked all the way down to sliders with junko and met up with me. it was a clean un-crowded day. we had breakfast together and have stayed in touch. rabbit is my japan surfapig correspondent!!! my good friend chris of poafilms is over in japan right now. before chris left for japan, i asked him if he'd hand deliver the fin to rabbit. he honored my request. it's so rad to know rabbit is just as enthusiastic about pigs as i am. i was very happy to give this fin to him. it comes off a Lance Carson board i had shaped back in 1999 or 2000. the story goes back further though. back in 1996 i was walking on the beach at deveraux looking for sea glass in the tide pools. i found a Lance Carson rake style fin all covered with barnacles and tangled in sea grass and kelp. i took the fin home, sanded it and replaced the busted metal pin. i used that fin in a few of my logs that had boxes. it turned a couple of them into magic boards. in particular it made this one log Matt Moore had shaped me into an amazing board. eventually the magic oozing from that newly found old washed up Carson fin made me feel like i needed a Lance Carson board. So finally in 1999 or 2000 i got my Carson. Rabbit's newly acquired fin was glassed into it. Lance's cabinet making buddy built the fin for Lance. I surfed that board with this fin glassed in it for about 8 years . The board was great. I recall many of fond sessions on it, from it's maiden voyage at sandspit, to epic days at rincon, malibu and Chinese harbor out on the islands. eventually i wanted to see what that magic fin i found would do to my carson. it felt like i was breaking some fundamental law of the universe... cutting rabbit's fin off my carson. but i have always lived like a crazy person at times. the fin is cut off, the box is dropped in, the board isn't made any more magical. kind of like ..."huh?" i ended up trading the carson board with the rake fin in it for a wing nosed jim philips pig. such is the way of SAMSARA. super stoked my buddy chris delivered this token of friendship to my good buddies rabbit and junko!
below junko is surfing
below rabbit is surfing
below is me on that Matt Moore log with the magic Carson fin in it. Tatsuo Takei shot this of me at rincon, back in '98 or there about.

1 comment:

  1. Received your friendship! Thank you sooooo much Surfapig!!!