i feel lucky. i used to surf in the gulf of mexico. even if that pile of death doesn't hit the shore at my old stomping grounds... i just don't even know what to say. strange times , these. a shot of my morning. a trusted board, a nice piece of drift wood, the moon and an empty peeler. i'll take it.
its a trip to think about what the sunrise has meant to so many cultures for so many years. how many times has the sun rose? how many colors has it cast?
i shot this picture of the moon this morning.
you'd think i was tired of seeing a perfect A frame. the pig style board was built for sliders. this wave is so perfect for a pig board.
how is the marine layer out the back... i wonder what the people in that sail boat were doing while i was sliding my way into emptiness.
today was super fun. it was EMPTY. the few of us out there were laughing. on a holiday weekend! many a GREAT wave were had. there was this guy that paddled out. he was sitting on the inside. there were at most 8 of us the entire time i was out. it was a day where you could commit to a full rail cutback and not worry that someone had snuck in behind you. the lack of people in the water made if a day where you could relax and just get to know your board. a beautiful peeler came to me. real clean, and lined up. i came off the bottom and set my line. i had to stick my right arm in the water all the way up to the elbow, just to stall enough to get in the pocket where i wanted to be. i locked in and was fully committed. i took my arm out and let the white water give my hair a rinse. it was NICE! the sun was that nuclear void i was surfing toward. it was casting a serious glare. when i took off on this wave, i didn't see anyone down the line. i sit wide, cuz i like the bay waves. this was one such wave...a bay wave. swung wide, hit the inside NICE!!! i was in the pit getting a hair rinse in the INSIDE. well if you are sitting in the inside, you can see the surfer surfing toward you perfectly. well that dude that i mentioned earlier was there. i hadn't seem him cuz the glare was that gnarly that far away, when i was taking off looking down the line. i had been in this trim in the pocket for at least 5 , 6 maybe 7 or 8 seconds. i pop out of the pocket and at that instant ...there he is.. prior to this moment in time, as i would paddle by him after catching a wave, he had been directing words of praise at me. that flashes through my head. i did this thing where i jumped forward and PUSHED my board backward as hard as I could. i flew over him and landed about 10 feet from him. i get to the surface of the water...and think "one less kook shredding our waves!" (...no, just kidding...i couldn't help but quote jazz the glass...) i thought holy FEEEE-YUUCCKK! i just did to that poor chap what ricky sholman did to me at rincon back in 99. (my head tore the fin off his tyler, 13 staples to the dome and a few weeks of my life i don't recall...accidents happen).. i get to the surface of the water and look in the direction he was supposed to be. there he is sitting there looking like a deer caught in the headlights. he is all checking himself out...looking at his arms and his hands...as it to see if he is dreaming... i am in UTTER SHOCK. i was sure i had just killed some dude. apparently my board didn't even touch him.
the picture below is ridiculous. how is the moon up in the corner?
this clip below gets me PSYCHED! i am stoked some of you are checking them out... seems like stoke is contagious. i had a wave today, where i pulled the camera out...pushed some buttons...got a head dip...came out swung off the top ... faded way into the flats, heaved a bottom turn and set up for my second barrel/head dip thing...came out...check the camera..nothing. CLASSIC. that shit makes me feel like an ass. i get SO psyched to have "gotten the footage" then i get so fucking pissed to have "not gotten the footage". its like socrates when his shackles are removed. he is marveled by the pleasure of the shackles being removed, he is exuberant ... however that jubilation would not have existed had the pain of the shackles never existed. my experience was the opposite...my angst over "not getting the footage" wouldn't have existed , had the jubilation of me "thinking i got the footage" never existed. i don't know...i suppose its a growing experience.
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