i surfed today. it was a high tide. it was about head high. it was kinda chunky, and the eddie came in. i am stoked though. it was best early. it was a day where you could burry your rail and lay down some serious turns. my blackboard was feeling great.sunrise
walked up to this.
the lefts looked good.
i have been tripping out on all the fractals that spring has been offering up.
here is a short clip from this morning's session.
who in their right mind would name their son Eddie?