this week i have had two friends (that don't know each other) say "i am thinking about moving". they are men. they know what they want in life. They are both in their early 40's. With wife and kids. its like surfing is taking a different priority in their life. what a treat that would be ... to be free of the wind , tide, and weather guiding your stress levels. i think they think that way because they live in an area where such GREAT surf is in such an easy striking distance. i mean its easy to be satisfied, when you have all you need at your finger tips. the danger is leaving this life and wanting it again.walked up to se this little peeler this morning. NICE!
a little A frame SNAPPER! i just can't dream of leaving this place. i hadn't surfed all week. my week was GNARLY. working every day and tutoring 2 hours after work 3 times this week. i get to SLIDERS this morning and my boys are telling me how good its been all week. i am like "yeah, NICE!!!" i was stoked out there. trying to film pelicans and what not. then i seen a wide swinger come my way. i locked into such a sweet one. drew the right line for the tight pocket ride... such a well shaped peeler.
there is a symmetry i am trying to get here. i can see this shot with my eye, but i can't get it with my phone yet.
below is this morning's session. i am a lucky man to be surrounded by family and friends.