this week i have had two friends (that don't know each other) say "i am thinking about moving". they are men. they know what they want in life. They are both in their early 40's. With wife and kids. its like surfing is taking a different priority in their life. what a treat that would be ... to be free of the wind , tide, and weather guiding your stress levels. i think they think that way because they live in an area where such GREAT surf is in such an easy striking distance. i mean its easy to be satisfied, when you have all you need at your finger tips. the danger is leaving this life and wanting it again.
walked up to se this little peeler this morning. NICE!
a little A frame SNAPPER! i just can't dream of leaving this place. i hadn't surfed all week. my week was GNARLY. working every day and tutoring 2 hours after work 3 times this week. i get to SLIDERS this morning and my boys are telling me how good its been all week. i am like "yeah, NICE!!!" i was stoked out there. trying to film pelicans and what not. then i seen a wide swinger come my way. i locked into such a sweet one. drew the right line for the tight pocket ride... such a well shaped peeler.
there is a symmetry i am trying to get here. i can see this shot with my eye, but i can't get it with my phone yet.
below is this morning's session. i am a lucky man to be surrounded by family and friends.
I always like surfing more when I'm hanging out with you Cptn. Not meant as any Hallmark card, just truth. I've been at this for a long time and I'm just now feeling the grip loosen, and it is kinda nice. I got 10 years before Ben is heading to school somewhere else and maybe since I haven't been working regularly in a few years and surfing more I have come to take it for granted, who knows. For now, we need to slide and I need to build that pig.
ReplyDeletei hear you mike. i wish we could have surfed this weekend. surfing gets to be a strange monster. my other buddy that said it to me...
ReplyDeletehe just surfs. he has a fairly gnar corporate job...but at the end of the day, he is just a wave rider. he could give a f UCK about this or that in the surf "industry". he surfs more than i do. he rides a thruster when he isn't riding a mini sims.
i lasted 8 months of not living near the ocean once. I took two surf trips in that 8 months. that shit was so weird. i was younger then, and I was studying artificial intelligence and robotics. its not my intent so suggest something is wrong or right, rather i am just trying to speak on it.