mateo ... surfapig's australian corespondent sent this to me via surfapig@live.com: Gnar~ I remember sharing those early morning paddle out session where it's still dark. You feel peaceful but a bit spooked due to the lack of crowd and stillness. Pure Magic. I just read this book by Bob Mctavish called Stoked. It is amazing how uncrowded life was back then. This picture tells you everything you need to know of the era.
yea.
