i am not going to wax all philosophical right now. i am just going to drop logic: fuck summer, love fall.
this morning was a repeat of thursday. i don't understand it. there was this current that was pulling the few people that were there today up north. sliders corner was empty. it was a quite day all over the point...but the corner was a ghost town...and it was THE place to be.
nose rides, curl shoots, a few barrels, cut backs...speed trims...FEE-YYYUUUCK!!!!
after 3 hours... i figured i better go and check on the family. there was this 45 minute to an hour time period between 9:15 to 10-ish that was this magical conveyor belt. this conveyor belt has only happened one other time in my life...well to this degree anyway. i wouldn't sit for more than 2 or 3 minutes before i was sliding across another glassy wall. it was a session where i could relax and think about subtle adjustments that refine surfing. it was strange going in.
the photos above are frame grabs from the video below.
