my van needs some repairs, and this year we've (the Black family) tightened the belt so to speak. i've been focusing on family and work...stoked as ever on surfing...but it hasn't been my motivating force...family has. however, i am surfing some, working a ton, and soaking up as much family time as possible. every now and again i get to spend some time with friends. today, i met Junko and Toshi from Japan, and spent some time with my buddy Richard Holcombe.
well, i also spent some time with my good buddy Slider's Point!!!
I love this wave. If i were to travel on a surf trip[, I'd just be chasing this wave. only warmer. today... on the trail down... 30 degrees.
i was the only one out for an hour.
how's that empty peeler out the back?
why am i shooting photos instead of surfing? simple, my arms didn't work anymore.
i obviously can't get enough of this shot!!!!!
my buddy richard holcombe is a rad human. he is generous to say the least. he shot a ton of photos today and then just gave me the card out of the camera , simply asking me to return it to him soon. NICE!!!!!!!!! here are a few of the shots he snapped. I am a robust 40 year old father, husband, math teacher, pig enthusiast, and an avid beer drinker...but feeee-yyyuuuucccckkkk! do i love this wave!!!!!
you have to put your GUT into it!!!
stoked on this sequence! this 10' BING feral pig handles the nose in the curl!!!!!!
richard went up in the bushes for the last few photos!!!!
thank you richard for the photos!!!!!!!!!
Nice real nice!! And how lucky to have a break to yourself!!ReplyDelete
I was!!! it's been one of those weeks where, although there are perefiral annoyances (van issues) you just sit back and feel like a fortunate human!!!ReplyDelete
I have so much! healthy happy family, a good job, and a grip of good waves to stoke me out for 2013!! I hope we all have a great year!!