i surfed this morning. it was pig perfect.
i went left today. the wave below has a sweet little left on it. i was tucked into the curl on mine. grabbed the rail and let it huck the lip over and out. it was great to hear the syphon and see the lip over my right shoulder out in front of me.
the set up.
there is a little wave peeling just above the tail of my board in the shot below.
pre paddle out.
yeah.
it was weezel's birthday yesterday. jon, seth , gene and i met up at pizza port. that there is a fresh pitcher of "pseudo".
fuck yes.
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