7029 gettin some water time.

been stoked to share some sessions with my good friend ricky. we have been surfing and hanging out. i've been stoked to feel my phi-n that i designed and david made. i'm looking forward to changing out fins to our flothru. the surf has been kind of gutless and then slightly chunky. regardless, i am psyching on this new set up!!!! check the video below. we scored some MENTAL conditions. too bad there wasn't a little more push!

mr 7029

so stoked on this. there are major changes going on right now. we have been in the process of selling and buying a house for a WHILE, and it looks like that is about to be a done deal. i am so spyched on our new location. next level kind. i have been working with david town on these fins. matt just got this board to me. i got this project that will be published before too long. got the ptaches about to hit soon. family is good, work is good. STOKED!!!!

these fins will be looking bright and opaque once we get beyond the prototype testing stage.

loving the eyes on this one!!

i've always wanted a pig with a cigar band.

sunday

lazy bottom turns, floppy head dips, man turns...repeat.

what a week!

almost got robbed sunday, got pink eye monday, left work early tuesday, went to sano wednesday, back to work thursday, had my first car collision in 26 years of driving friday (in my work parking lot of all places!) scored the clean shit saturday morning.

this pic below is classic. the house i am parked in front of is "the gold dust lady's" house. a stevie nicks enthusiast judging from her license plate frame. she H A T E S my van. she has been trying to slander me to all the neighbors. they've told her to calm down. we are currently in a feud for this parking spot. i took this picture , so when i move, i'll print it on a post card and send it to her.

today was fun. crisp clean kind with a god friend. Y E S.

good friends, epic waves... and great plastic!

my boy ricky muniz took the photos. not only is ricky a mean shredder, amazing (start to finish) board builder, and fantastic human...he is also a lens-smith. bravo! below are a few of the highlights. just doing what we do, when we do it.

channeling my inner "casanova pelvic tip jib!!"

can't quite tell if i'm trying to stall, or cut back or just flaunt my supremely cultivated IPA gut.

when the photos were taken, i had been gunnin this board / wetsuit combo for 45 months. that's 3 years 9 months for the unit conversion challenged. in other words, my BING FERAL PIG and my ZAP! wetsuit have been giving me love for a LONG time. i trip on it. i am so grateful for the quality products I have received from my good friends at ZAP! and BING over the years. they have DIRECTLY contributed to my pleasure in life. and that brings balance to the rest of my life. i am in debt. i don't know any person that sports the same wetsuit and board for that long, and have their products in the condition mine are in. i never put my board in a bag. i rarely rinse my suite.

little trim.

hodge podge, nor east bit.

2/3 of these pics have the nor east embedded in them.

the foiled fall wallet boost job

surf was fun.

my boy dan and i scored for hours.

below is the scene of the crime.  dan and i paddle out at dark. around 5:50, i paddle in to grab my camera out of my bag to shoot some shots of dan shredding. i was obligated to go in at this point in the sesh. as if there were something forcing me to go in. at the time i thought it was the amazing display of gorgeous colors and happenings. i knew there wasn't quite enough light, yet the colors were too rad not to go and grab the camera.  as i was riding a wave in , near the shore, i notice a dark shadowy figure sitting on the bench straddleing my bag. there was another figure over by dan's bag. this caught me off guard as the whole time we were surfing , i didn't see anyone on the beach. 'course it was fairly dark. but i was being observant. these guys must of lurked up the bushes , or hugged the estuary. regardless, there were no other humans in the water, or on the beach. then, at dusk, as i am looking for my bag i find some guy straddling my bag with his hand dangling in the top of it. more over, i know this guy very well. i know where he works. i know how old he is. i know he is 57 years old, and i know he has a daughter and and grand child. i've had pleasant interactions with this guy for the past 7 years. his accomplice is somewhat new to me. i've seen him around lately.

i walk up to where my bag is. i say to the robber: "what's up ?" he replies "hows the surf?" , i put my board down and reach down in-between this fellas legs to grab my bag. awkward. i say "i need my shit". i grab my bag, thinking "what the fuck?!" i place the bag by my feet a few yards from where it used to be. it seems unmolested. i say "it's all right" in regards to the thief's question about the quality of the surf. he then asks, "is that a new board?" i respond "nope." his friend had got up and walked away when i dropped my board prior to grabbing my bag. at this point he is showing back up. he sits down, as i am going through my bag, checking the contents, making sure all is there, and grabbing my camera out of my bag. this accomplice guy sits down and pipes up with a "you should know better". i respond "i should know better?" he says "yeah, this beach is wide open and you put your shit here?!" i respond with "exactly, it IS wide open. i did put my shit here." he goes on with "you should know better." i'm all "i should know better?" he's all "look man, i'm just saying. some of the guys around here aren't so nice. we built this shack. don't put your shit here." at this point i'm thinking "you fool. you criminal minded scumbag. you are admitting i caught y'all dirtbags red handed from purposefully targeting my boy and i." simultaneously i am thinking, i want to get out of this situation with neither of them thinking i got beef with them. i want them to feel like they win the pissing match. last thing i need is to have my beautiful surf spot feel like an unsafe place. i'm thinking about how to give these scum-suckers the belief that they have accomplished what their foiled scheme would have (in their minds) accomplished. of course the knee jerk reaction in this case is to yell, make threats, and more than likely acquire bloody knuckles. although that might have made things feel "right" at that moment, i believe that would have ultimately created a terrible scene. it's funny how i can be logical in this situation, but find it very difficult to be logical in situations where my girls are threatened. so i respond to this guy "whats your name?" he tells me a name, i try to remember it, but as i type this i can't remember the name he said exactly. i do remember the fellas name that i caught red handed trying to boost MY shit. after all every time i surf with this fella we talk about all kinds of pleasant stuff. had i not gone in to grab my camera, and they had actually pulled off their vile despicable effort, i'd of NEVER pegged this guy as the guy that boosted my shit. ever. CRAZY.

so, after i ask for the accomplice's name i say " alright, i hear you. you're right. i haven't built this shack, i don't ever thrash it, but i have never built it." he's all "look man, you should know better. just don't put your shit here. i'm just saying." i respond with "what are you just sayin?" he's all "look man, not everyone around here is so nice" i respond with "so, what... if i leave my shit here, then something is going to happen. it's like that?!" hes like "i'm just saying, not everyone around here is so nice." i say "thanks for the heads up." i grab my bag and my buddy's bag, and walk them down the beach. paddle back out and proceed to have one of the best sessions this fall.

i was stoked i didn't let this experience harsh our mello. i feel liked i learned something about the people around me. i'm curious to see how the rest of this season plays out.

scored some fun waves at sano later in the day with my beautiful wife.