surf was fun.
my boy dan and i scored for hours.
below is the scene of the crime. dan and i paddle out at dark. around 5:50, i paddle in to grab my camera out of my bag to shoot some shots of dan shredding. i was obligated to go in at this point in the sesh. as if there were something forcing me to go in. at the time i thought it was the amazing display of gorgeous colors and happenings. i knew there wasn't quite enough light, yet the colors were too rad not to go and grab the camera. as i was riding a wave in , near the shore, i notice a dark shadowy figure sitting on the bench straddleing my bag. there was another figure over by dan's bag. this caught me off guard as the whole time we were surfing , i didn't see anyone on the beach. 'course it was fairly dark. but i was being observant. these guys must of lurked up the bushes , or hugged the estuary. regardless, there were no other humans in the water, or on the beach. then, at dusk, as i am looking for my bag i find some guy straddling my bag with his hand dangling in the top of it. more over, i know this guy very well. i know where he works. i know how old he is. i know he is 57 years old, and i know he has a daughter and and grand child. i've had pleasant interactions with this guy for the past 7 years. his accomplice is somewhat new to me. i've seen him around lately.
i walk up to where my bag is. i say to the robber: "what's up ?" he replies "hows the surf?" , i put my board down and reach down in-between this fellas legs to grab my bag. awkward. i say "i need my shit". i grab my bag, thinking "what the fuck?!" i place the bag by my feet a few yards from where it used to be. it seems unmolested. i say "it's all right" in regards to the thief's question about the quality of the surf. he then asks, "is that a new board?" i respond "nope." his friend had got up and walked away when i dropped my board prior to grabbing my bag. at this point he is showing back up. he sits down, as i am going through my bag, checking the contents, making sure all is there, and grabbing my camera out of my bag. this accomplice guy sits down and pipes up with a "you should know better". i respond "i should know better?" he says "yeah, this beach is wide open and you put your shit here?!" i respond with "exactly, it IS wide open. i did put my shit here." he goes on with "you should know better." i'm all "i should know better?" he's all "look man, i'm just saying. some of the guys around here aren't so nice. we built this shack. don't put your shit here." at this point i'm thinking "you fool. you criminal minded scumbag. you are admitting i caught y'all dirtbags red handed from purposefully targeting my boy and i." simultaneously i am thinking, i want to get out of this situation with neither of them thinking i got beef with them. i want them to feel like they win the pissing match. last thing i need is to have my beautiful surf spot feel like an unsafe place. i'm thinking about how to give these scum-suckers the belief that they have accomplished what their foiled scheme would have (in their minds) accomplished. of course the knee jerk reaction in this case is to yell, make threats, and more than likely acquire bloody knuckles. although that might have made things feel "right" at that moment, i believe that would have ultimately created a terrible scene. it's funny how i can be logical in this situation, but find it very difficult to be logical in situations where my girls are threatened. so i respond to this guy "whats your name?" he tells me a name, i try to remember it, but as i type this i can't remember the name he said exactly. i do remember the fellas name that i caught red handed trying to boost MY shit. after all every time i surf with this fella we talk about all kinds of pleasant stuff. had i not gone in to grab my camera, and they had actually pulled off their vile despicable effort, i'd of NEVER pegged this guy as the guy that boosted my shit. ever. CRAZY.
so, after i ask for the accomplice's name i say " alright, i hear you. you're right. i haven't built this shack, i don't ever thrash it, but i have never built it." he's all "look man, you should know better. just don't put your shit here. i'm just saying." i respond with "what are you just sayin?" he's all "look man, not everyone around here is so nice" i respond with "so, what... if i leave my shit here, then something is going to happen. it's like that?!" hes like "i'm just saying, not everyone around here is so nice." i say "thanks for the heads up." i grab my bag and my buddy's bag, and walk them down the beach. paddle back out and proceed to have one of the best sessions this fall.
i was stoked i didn't let this experience harsh our mello. i feel liked i learned something about the people around me. i'm curious to see how the rest of this season plays out.
scored some fun waves at sano later in the day with my beautiful wife.
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