i surfed with tim and steve today. they were on their andreini gliders. i got a wave on steve's board. it blew my mind.... scrambled my head. i can't believe 12 foot of board surfs like that. it felt like there was no resistance from the water...it projected around sections phenomenally. toward the end of the wave it was going faster than it was supposed to be going. ..oh and i had an UNREAL session on ye ol BLACKSTOKE. NICE!!!
the surf was very nice today. the texture of the water was just right. the size and shape proclaimed: "YE SHALL RIDE THE LOG!!!" and that i did. so did my buddy tim of sliders. i really love this wave. i have this strange attraction for symmetry. the depth and fractal nature of this fence is EPIC. i had been thinking about how to get the pattern of the chain link fence in such a way as to honor the pattern. i got it with this one. you have to love phone cameras.
walking up and seeing this. how do you think your session is going to be?
talk about fundamental fractal.
obligatory A frame.
reeds.
as randall rodstoker would say "so clean."
my board blurring by me this morning on the walk down. thanks be to tom of sliders for sliding my board down. neat little flowers. check this video. there were so many EPIC waves going by unridden today.
to say i had fun out there is a massive understatement. it was a day where you could relax and really drive your board through top turns a bottom turns. late stand up style off the bottom, like you were matt howard or something. i had a few INSANE curl shots. it was a day where it felt like all the waves were coming to me. i even went left a few times today. i got out of the water due to a feeling of guilt. i felt bad that i was ALWAYS in the right place. it was a great day.
after a productive day at work and after taking care of my darling...i stopped by a friend's house on my way to the evening glass and borrowed a board. not that i am short of boards...but rather my buddy has a particular board that i have been dreaming about. let the record show Marc Adnreini knows a thing or two or three or four or five or six or 7 or 8 or more about the pig shape....what a lucky time and space i occupy...NICE!!! thank you Tim!!
Tim Elsner sent me this from swaylocks: 10'4" x 14 1/2" x 21 3/4" x 14" x 3/4" redwood stringer.....#14892.....great condition, pulled nose and tight tail, full round rails.....ready to go another 45 years!.....e-mail for additional pix $525.00 USD no shipping Will not ship - local pickup only wetwish1 on swaylocks http://www.swaylocks.com/surfshop/Detailed/4624.html
check the video!
