Sunday, June 5, 2016

first go on the hansen was a blast

after surfing this board today, a thought occurred to me. this board was a performance based surf craft the day it was made. the materials used, and the design were considered what was appropriate for yielding a functional board of the day. today it seems to be a beater. the waves i caught today had me laughing. i love the feeling it provided. she is reluctant to get going, (compared to the board i was recently riding) but once in trim she felt like I was in a 70's era cadillac. turning her required a different approach than the board i was most recently riding. all the differences between this board and the one i had been riding before this one had me smiling and thinking. the feeling a surfer gets on their particular craft is subjective. i was super content with the feeling today. modern boards are so different from my hansen. 1980's shortboards are vastly different from today's shortboards. yet in the 80's those boards were the performance based surf craft they day they were born. i guess a surfer can be pigeon holed into a journey vs resident type. can you find a board and feel stoked on that board enough to not give a shit about what other people say and not feel an inner curiosity about the next newest future shapes / designs? or are you the one that enjoys what they currently have but is always searching for the next thing? i can't ignore that quite curiosity myself. i feel content, yet i'm always wandering...or is it wondering.

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