pre luau 6 warm up

mangmang and i scored today. thats him on the wave in the last pic.

ole dirty ya herdy done got his self a feral pig seen

late mid june

pre work mid june

below, 23 years ago

miscreants making miscreant shirts in a lab.

so.... my buddy that has shown me so much love over the past decade gives me an opportunity to scoop up some left over blanks and allows me access to his (and craig stecyk's) print lab the other day. i use the art that wizard miles thompson drew and the old screen that my boy Sean (forward screen printing) made and used last year.  any way, we grab some suds , throw some ink and pull some squeegees. i end up with near 20 shirts. some of which shouldn't be sold. i'm tempted to dye these white ones on account i can not wear white, as i am such a dirty fvcker. anyway as the current inventory is:

4 black XL (3 good, 1 questionable)

2 black L (all good enough)

8 white XL (all good)




if you want one of these shirts, ask me to hold it for you and i will. then you can pick it up at the luau for $15. if you can't make it to the luau, email me: surfapig@live.com and i'll give you an address to send $20 to. upon receiving your coin, i'll buy and envelope and stuff the shirt of your choice in it. unless you want one of the shit ones. then just send me $5. that way i can buy an envelope and ship it to you. simple right? when you email me, include color and size ( and if you want a shit one).

ol gal likes to hum

loving this board. she reminds me of an old car i used to have. you could punch the gas and she wouldn't peel out or anything...however she would eventually get up to speed. i got this board on a few nice ones today. the rudder sings at times. at speed she feels like i imagine a giant cadillac from the 70's would if you were flooring it , bombing down through a windy canyon road.

first go on the hansen was a blast

after surfing this board today, a thought occurred to me. this board was a performance based surf craft the day it was made. the materials used, and the design were considered what was appropriate for yielding a functional board of the day. today it seems to be a beater. the waves i caught today had me laughing. i love the feeling it provided. she is reluctant to get going, (compared to the board i was recently riding) but once in trim she felt like I was in a 70's era cadillac. turning her required a different approach than the board i was most recently riding. all the differences between this board and the one i had been riding before this one had me smiling and thinking. the feeling a surfer gets on their particular craft is subjective. i was super content with the feeling today. modern boards are so different from my hansen. 1980's shortboards are vastly different from today's shortboards. yet in the 80's those boards were the performance based surf craft they day they were born. i guess a surfer can be pigeon holed into a journey vs resident type. can you find a board and feel stoked on that board enough to not give a shit about what other people say and not feel an inner curiosity about the next newest future shapes / designs? or are you the one that enjoys what they currently have but is always searching for the next thing? i can't ignore that quite curiosity myself. i feel content, yet i'm always wandering...or is it wondering.

fun early june