Wednesday, January 11, 2012


i came across this picture in the LIFE archives. this picture grabbed my attention. it reminds me of a little wave i surfed a tremendous amount in Nosara. nothing particularly special about the wave, but a fun little wave popping off a rock (somewhat reminiscent of our beloved north l.a. county spot "sequit") . crowded. the wave in Nosara was surfed by twice this many short boarders all hoping to be kelly one day. i think i'd prefer to share this wave with these dudes, and the dory!

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