i came across this picture in the LIFE archives. this picture grabbed my attention. it reminds me of a little wave i surfed a tremendous amount in Nosara. nothing particularly special about the wave, but a fun little wave popping off a rock (somewhat reminiscent of our beloved north l.a. county spot "sequit") . crowded. the wave in Nosara was surfed by twice this many short boarders all hoping to be kelly one day. i think i'd prefer to share this wave with these dudes, and the dory!
the below photo is from the LIFE archives. i'm feeling the guy receiving the frothy warm after surf beverage. he looks either impatient or in pain. perhaps he has a crick in his neck (from sleeping in his car the night before) that he has been ignoring during his entire session. now, he is slightly jealous of the guy ( who has already received his beverage) sitting on the bumper... the guy receiving the frothy after surf beverage is probably thinking "fuck! friend...careful with the suds, hurry this up!...i do thank you for them though." the guy pouring the beverage is probably a scientist, or a dentist. either way, he understands he is at the beach, he values the beverage, and is trying to actually get the liquid part into the guys cup... not giving a shit about the suds, as they are spilling onto the sand. the day is hot. (notice the pooch seeking shade under ther car)
hopefully this is what the surf looked like in the morning prior to them paddling out.
i can't believe where life has taken me. i don't know how i have dodged all the bullets i have. most of the time i feel like i don't deserve the privileged life i live. i'll take it...and i'll fight to keep it...but got damn! am i stoked! this new flex is definitely suited to my surfing style.
look ma! i'm an artist. the blurry foreground gives it that "texture" that is so trendy right now. i shot this with my phone. it has resin on the lens from when i took a call during the repair session for "esmeralda". speaking of which...give me my board back SMUKES! pre session quick snap. i thought i get radical and try to find my way to a different spot today. well i found it...and then i quickly realized why i surf sliders and not "not sliders".
summer is here. today marks the beginning of a CRAZY summer for me. there is so much change right in front of me...there is only one thing to do. BLAST IT!!!
lets get radical.
(check that D fin out on that pintail above the dude in the back of the top picture! how sexy is the girl with her straps hanging this way and that?)
surfing can be so many things. it is inspiration, it is frustration. it is a means to an end, it is the end all be all of everything. it is purely selfish, it is a balancing force. it is life. it is nothing more and nothing less than riding a wave.
over the years LIFE has transpired. lately I have been reflecting on my passions. i could have been stoked on surfing with out ever having ridden or owned a velzy jacobs balsa in near perfect condition. however, after riding it, things seem different. i wonder if it wasn't just that particular session. i wonder how my future experiences on that board will shape my relationship with it.
my dad never listened to "the oldies" stations. i have been raised to "respect your elders". i do not have "route 66" memorabilia cluttering up my environs. i used to do airs and spins and tail slides on a thruster back in the 90's. i listen to slayer. i just don't know...there is something about the aesthetic of beach life around mid century that is the TOPS!
i live in california. slider's point is in california. rincon, el cap, mailibu, sandspit and poles is in california. my ma and pa are in texas. i am reaching that point of no return. the point where i have lived out here longer than i have lived in texas. i ain't there yet...but its close 'proachin. california is different than texas.
today i went on a field trip. i went to a nature conservancy. it was splendid. it made me think about life and time differently than i do normally. every bird i hear, every grain of sand in your shoe... you know?
hopefully this is what the surf looked like in the morning prior to them paddling out.
look ma! i'm an artist. the blurry foreground gives it that "texture" that is so trendy right now. i shot this with my phone. it has resin on the lens from when i took a call during the repair session for "esmeralda". speaking of which...give me my board back SMUKES!
pre session quick snap.
i thought i get radical and try to find my way to a different spot today. well i found it...and then i quickly realized why i surf sliders and not "not sliders".
yea.
lets get radical.
my dad never listened to "the oldies" stations. i have been raised to "respect your elders". i do not have "route 66" memorabilia cluttering up my environs. i used to do airs and spins and tail slides on a thruster back in the 90's. i listen to slayer.
i just don't know...there is something about the aesthetic of beach life around mid century that is the TOPS!
tarantulas.
407 11th st huntington beach. 5 years ago.
chemical dungeon 1
chemical dungeon 2
today i went on a field trip. i went to a nature conservancy. it was splendid. it made me think about life and time differently than i do normally.
every bird i hear, every grain of sand in your shoe...
you know?
