this has been an unusual october. the rain has warshed a rut in the trail.when i got to the beach, i nearly didn't paddle out. it was chunky. then i thought about the fact that i am at the beach , with a surfboard, i have my health, and there are ridable waves breaking. it was pure logic at that point.
i was stoked i paddled out. i sat to far north at first. my buddy phil of sliders was getting all the good ones. eventually i found my way to the spot.
look ma! i'm an artist!!! this is a shot taken with my cell phone, like all the others on this post. except for this one i used photo shop to give it a photo-shop pseudo analog lo-fi look. you know, its important to keep up with the trends!
i have a shit ton of photos of my fin. Gene is a smart mother fucker. putting the cooperfish logo on my fin has his brand in all the shots i tend to gravitate toward.
it went through periods of glassy conditions today. there was a stretch where i had some incredible waves. i am SO grateful for the board i have.
classic sliders point. a short boarder missed the section, a nice one out the back.
i was stoked on a few rights today!
that is my buddy troy taking off on a BOMB! he scored this wave all the way into the bay.
the wave after troy's
how i reproduced such a beautiful daughter is beyond my understanding.