today was a productive day. i woke up and did some chores. yawn patrolled my way to sliders. after a couple hours of sliding the corner at sliders, i came home and tutored. after tutoring i did more chores. now, i have a clean house, a happy wife, a healthy daughter, and a little post to keep me stoked this week. NICE! the inside was where to be. you can see that wave behind this crisp one.the average rain fall for october at sliders is .3 inches. i'd say this is not an average year.
i was so stoked today even though there were a few people out. when i was changing into my shorts and jacket , i saw the corner working. however... i paddled up to the peak at first. i was stoked i did, i picked a beautiful set wave off before i even got my hair wet. i was trying to stay on the corner but would find my self up top.
a fungus among us.
it was a day of some great cutbacks, bottom turns, nose rides, and a few nice curl shoots. i was super stoked on this one where i had pig dogged this right "goofy footed". i had to put my right foot forward to keep the weight high on my inside rail. it was a great wave. it was a meaty insider that just kept training down the bay. it just kept throwing out in front of me. i thought i wouldn't make this section at several moments in the ride... i was super stoked to make it out the back.
check the video!