i can't believe where life has taken me. i don't know how i have dodged all the bullets i have. most of the time i feel like i don't deserve the privileged life i live. i'll take it...and i'll fight to keep it...but got damn! am i stoked! this new flex is definitely suited to my surfing style.look ma! i'm an artist. the blurry foreground gives it that "texture" that is so trendy right now. i shot this with my phone. it has resin on the lens from when i took a call during the repair session for "esmeralda". speaking of which...give me my board back SMUKES!
pre session quick snap.
i thought i get radical and try to find my way to a different spot today. well i found it...and then i quickly realized why i surf sliders and not "not sliders".