i wake up today and wander on down the trail. as i get to the sand i see my buddy tom. it's still pretty early in the morning. he is changing back into his clothes. it made no sense. i asked him why he wasn't still surfing. he simply said "shark." i must have still been asleep, because i asked him to repeat himself. "shark." so i am just standing there with 2680 on my head looking at these beautiful glassy pig perfect peelers peeling by. i inquired further.
he was siting on his board looking at this bird that was floating VERY close to him. just as he was looking at the bird a 5 to 6 foot shark lumbered its way up and bit at the bird. the bird didn't fly away at first. the shark circled the bird then came back for another try. the bird flew away. my buddy paddled in. THE ENDnow my entire session was filled with that nervous eye looking for movement in the water. i caught some beautiful waves. i had a nice set that bowled so clean. i pulled in and scored a clean barrel. i wasn't even thinking about the shark. ...but you know this bing ...2680... is still new to me. i am figuring out what i can get away with...figuring out where she is sticky, where her acceleration pedal is. well, on this barrel...it is going to pinch me. i was trying to encourage the board to climb the face, but instead she washed out. i lost my board. and as luck would have it...the fucking thing washes all the way in. i have to swim through the lagoon. it's a high tide. all of a sudden that shark story comes to mind. i am swimming as fast as i can. my heart rate is increasing. i was sure to scream like a baby if i would have accidently bumped a piece of kelp. CLASSIC!