i poached sliders today with a buddy and his brother (who now i would consider a buddy too!). my buddy Eric rode my feral pig, while i rode another board of mine. the board i was riding felt like it had and anchor attached to its skeg. where as Eric with his D fin was projecting out of bottom tuns, getting some nice curl shoots, and getting some cut backs all the way to the beach!!! i have no pics of the session. as if some nuance of sliders point came into my "smart phone" and said "ye shall NOT record!!!!". in other words, my camera would not activate. i mean , my phone , while at sliders would not take photos today . as soon as i left sliders it was good to go. CLASSIC. either way, i was stoked to get some salt water in me blood. stoked to share some sliders with a buddy.
ye ole sliders point. i love this wave!!!! shared some of these waves with my good buddy chris T. cheers mate for meeting up here this morning for yawn patrol! i scored one of these PERFECT lefts today. SO STOKED!! sometimes the best christmas presents are ones that aren't bought!!! ...just made. yeah. i met a guy named paul on the beach. he had his camera and got this one of me today before he split. thanks paul. i guess you could say i never got the memo that says "D fins don't turn". BLAST IT!!!!
crazy weekend. shared sliders today with a new friend.
evan comes up to me at the board swap yesterday and says "are you black?". for which i reply: "yea". after chumming it up at the swap yesterday, we exchange numbers and viola! sliders sesh in the mornin. evan is based north of point conception. he seemed quite comfortable down here! obligatory line up shot! ...uhh.. did i say this was the CLEAN SHIT?! yeah. clean template! (evan caught a few on my feral pig) Evan!! cheers! it was great to meet you and share some stoke!!! (we exchanged boards today for a bit. i started off on my feral pig {fucking mental...had such a blast..nose rides, curl shoots, great cutbacks} then evan asked to give my board a go. i was stoked to swap. the first wave i caught on evan's ...the board felt kinda sticky. it was backside...and it was just a pure curl shooter... but i stuck it out and caught a few more. his board works well. it is quite alive when you are on the nose. it is great to live in a day where shapers are checking shit out, doing different things, figuring out this or that!) then i received a text from my boy johnny. it said "ham sammich" with this pic attached. did i mention ...."the clean shit"? i responded with this pic and the statement "toofless". back in june i got my two front teeth "repaired". i had busted them skateboarding and bmx-ing when i was a grom. i had to get root canals and crowns. last night on my way to bing's 1 year anniversary on the hill event, my wife , my daughter and i stopped to have some great sushi in ocean side. i was eating some edamame when my front crown came off. fuck it. we go to the event, and as i am trying to explain to margaret how my crown came off, it comes off and falls on the floor. i pick it up and put it back in and continue to try to talk. it comes off again and i try to catch it, juggling this front tooth. it was funny as fuck. 'corse there were people there with cameras. margaret, glen sakamoto, josh hall got a super fucked up video of my toofles ass! EPIC!!!!! any way, here is yet another toofles shot! check the video!!!!
i poached these from the bing face book page. this shit was classic. the one time i get to get a pic with THE MAN, bing copeland...i am toofless. EHHH -- AHH -- PIC!
i love sliders point. i love this BING FERAL PIG. today was a fun day down there. i am amazed at this board's function. feels super fast...frictionless, it holds trim , yet transitions out into bottom turns effortlessly. the turns feel like i am on a magic carpet. the waves were kind of steep today, some of them were about chest high. the action on the nose surprised me. i was able to keep my speed and control my line through a steep inside section. this board is the whole package! i'm tripping out! where has this board been all my life?!
yeah jason! i'm lovin the shirt!! obligatory bird shot!
surfed fun waves with a grip of friends...can't beat it.
almost walked into this guy on the way down. thanks jason for pointing him out!
it was a fun day. it was great to have it be a light croud day, yet have most of them be friends. jason, phil, tom (the mystic...got the wave of the day!), tim, greg, michael, steve, his wife kaitlyn, and the ambassador of stoke.. STERLING... EPIC!!
thank you tom for saving my neck!!!!!!!
the photo above was poached from Eric's blog.
