Wednesday, October 28, 2015

late october early morning san o.

i've always laughed at the idea of this wave being called "the point". i just never understood it. rincon, malibu, poles,ragland, sawmills... those are points... this wave... what?!! i guess i'm just not in the know. san o is off and on with me. i love being here with my wife and daughter. hanging with violet while cindee surfs. that is what this place is to me. i never really take the surfing seriously when i surf here. this morning i actually caught a few good waves though. it WAS a fun wave. a good wave. stoked i went out. looks like this log on a pole is ending its tenure. i'd like to pilfer the sign and the board when it falls. maybe a midnight run? doubt it...

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