trims like a proper log, turns like she's on a rail. fucking hyped.
Saturday, October 31, 2015
Wednesday, October 28, 2015
late october early morning san o.
i've always laughed at the idea of this wave being called "the point". i just never understood it. rincon, malibu, poles,ragland, sawmills... those are points... this wave... what?!! i guess i'm just not in the know. san o is off and on with me. i love being here with my wife and daughter. hanging with violet while cindee surfs. that is what this place is to me. i never really take the surfing seriously when i surf here. this morning i actually caught a few good waves though. it WAS a fun wave. a good wave. stoked i went out. looks like this log on a pole is ending its tenure. i'd like to pilfer the sign and the board when it falls. maybe a midnight run? doubt it...
Saturday, October 24, 2015
Friday, October 23, 2015
Sunday, October 18, 2015
Saturday, October 17, 2015
greg pearson and the 1966 hobie.
thank you greg for shooting this today. i appreciate it immensely. my boy jk had to sell this beautiful hobie. my boy jethro had to buy it. i had the opportunity to shred it for a sesh. so hyped. this board is gorgeous. has so much shape to it. super progressive. significantly different than a board from the same manufacturer a few years earlier. tripping. some say dale cannon, others think terry martin. either way, this board is insane. i am so psyched to get a chance to shred it. i'll post up proper shots of the board next.
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