...surf a pig...: June 2015

Sunday, June 28, 2015

sliding the leaning phin at sliders point

love days like this. ye old surflie called it 2-3 poor to fair.

that yellow sign was poached from the train tracks when they were rebuilt back in 2011. says : danger no trespassing.

loving this leaningphin. it's been a long time since i have rode anything that in anyway resembles anything remotely similar to this fin. moreover, back then, i was on a parallel railed dumbo eared sidewalk, with a scooped concave. not only was that fin somewhat different than this fin, the board it was attached to was vastly different. in my eye, this leaningphin looks crazy. however, i love trying to put aesthetic blindfolds on. not obsessing over aesthetics and just listening to the feeling. regarding the feeling of this fin under foot. crazy shit. wild. i've been experiencing locations and lines, and transfers of energy that i wouldn't even think about. so rad. this fin box in my feral pig has been exploding my mind. that and david town's genius. so stoked!!!!

Thursday, June 25, 2015

the leaning phin.

david town is a fin specialist. not only is he a mean shredder, and a board fabricator... he builds fins better than we do. bless jah he listens to me. so we have the flothru, and the phin. this leaningphin was just a mathematical jest of sorts. however ugly the aesthetic of it is... the feeling speaks for its-self. regarding feelings... on a different level...i was feeling like some kind of pioneer. or didi i feel like a straight guy going into a gay bar...i don't know... walking down to the beach with it felt weird. moreover... i didn't trust it at first when i went to the bottom. i got to say though... i took er there. i went to the bottom. i kept her int the bottom. i felt like i was a bottom man. heck... i almost started googling images of bottoms. almost. then , i threw her on her side. my feral pig. she took it like never before. too easy. "damn!" i thought. this shit is too easy.