i blasted this monday, still un-molested thursday. shocking.
early this week, i realized i'd have today off from work. i checked the weather, checked the surf... felt like the universe was coming together in some magical way. i half expected to see a unicorn walk out from the bushes prior to me paddling out.
snapped the pic below while i was almost tearing my wetsuit trying to get it on as quick as possible.
came in from my sesh to take a few pics for a sec.
my thinking unicorns were going to come out of the bushes had everyting to do with 1) being a father of a 4 year old daughter... 2) realizing my great friend Tatsuo Takei was about to show up and shoot this session. for the un-initiated, tatsuo is a MEAN shredder. a proper traditionalist of the old school. i first met tatsuo 18 years ago when he took a photo of matt plummer and i at the queen. two decades.
tatsuo spends time here and in japan. he is working on some AMAZING projects. 4 projects that i know of that are NEXT level shit. and he is a sage of patience. an amazing human. he apprenticed under mr. grannis and uses the same equipment mr. grannis did for shooting photos.
tatsuo has me involved in one of his projects. i am psyched. honored.
kordory and the surfers journal did a little piece on tatsuo. here it is below.
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