Saturday, May 31, 2014

Ricky from Puerto Rico and I have been SCORING.

Ricky is rad. so stoked to meet up with new friends and SCORE. Ricky and I were sharing wave after wave. Like a conveyor belt this morning. we both surfed well today. Ricky had some knee paddle in super clean bottom turns, nose ride master,turn, set up, do it again.... on a board he made start to finish himself, on the island. i was up to my usual trip. bottom turn, stall, head dip, hair-wash curl shoot, cutback...repeat. so buttery out there today. warm water too. so GOOD. i had to run in and get some shots of Ricky. so stoked i did too. i was standing in the bay trying to get some shots , and the leopard sharks came and said "hi". i could have done with out that. yeah, yeah... i know.. i get it ... they don't bite. SO. the shit is freaky. period.

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