mateo ... surfapig's australian corespondent sent this to me via firstname.lastname@example.org: Gnar~ I remember sharing those early morning paddle out session where it's still dark. You feel peaceful but a bit spooked due to the lack of crowd and stillness. Pure Magic. I just read this book by Bob Mctavish called Stoked. It is amazing how uncrowded life was back then. This picture tells you everything you need to know of the era.yea.