Friday, September 3, 2010


the surf was fun today. i love my surfboard.


  1. I just had your two movies shipped to the deep dirty south island of NZ
    i'll let you know what i think soon (like it matters).....
    anyway i wanted to know your opinion on something
    Surf movie greats
    how do you rate the following;
    Hal Jepsen
    Steve Soderberg
    Dale Davis
    Curt Mastalka

    Why am i asking
    Cos i've seen nothing from any of em
    and was thinking of tracking down some nice old movies

    thanks for your time

    P.s just to share the stoke ...and cos it's weird
    Check this completely hollow "?Pig?"

  2. ,

    it does matter. i thank you for the support.

    HJ: I watched his stuff before i was even aware. I mean , when i was seeing his stuff, all i was doing was seeing waves on the screen. I haven't gone back and checked out what his gig is really all about.

    SS: pretty much the same thing.

    DD: is a different story. i spent quite a bit of time with the golden breed in 2003 - 2005 just before filming invasion. however, nothing about that piece stands out as particularly great. i LOVE the film, but i don't love it because it is an extraordinary piece of art...rather, i love it because it highlights s bit of surf culture is a quirky way. (like that piece where that dude dies, and DD calmly says "he just died").

    CM: i am totally ignorant about his work.

    that hollow board/pig thing looks wild! kiwi hobo! classic!

    what is the story with that board? i mean I read the bit about where , and who made it from a mold? does that seem shred your arms when you are paddling? when was it made?

    what a FUNKY template! its nice to see those action shots of it.


  3. Thanks for that
    sent you an email