late januarary bu.

cracked the bu this morning. super small clean kind. scored a few rib-cage high ones, peeled for days.  stoked to feel my board on a different wave. so rad. got the f-ck outta there before all the zombies came out of the cracks.

love me the late january crispy kind.

got to the waters edge at dark. sat there and listened to the low tide pools lap against the grainy said. hadn't felt peace like that in a while. paddled out and was all alone for about 5 waves. that was rad and spooky. came in, shot these photos, then split work.

pre-work sano style.

grabbed a few before work today. cold, crisp and clean.

greg's photos from early Jan.

thank you greg, you really know how to take photos. cheyne it was great to meet you.