...surf a pig...

catchin up!!

2012-02-08T05:33:00.001-08:00

i'm so stoked on the contributions i get for surfapig! lately, i have been super busy surfing ,doing family stuff, and developing some math project. it has been a bit more difficult to get on here and feed this beautiful monster. it humbles me though...the inbox keeps filling up! thank you so much for the contributions!!! keep them coming!

and to think of it.... there is one update i wasn't able to make yet. hopefully i'll get to it soon. something about a big D a little D and godzilla.

on with the show!

chuck sent me this via surfapig@live.com: You'll probably love this one: (http://diariodeunchurfer.wordpress.com/2012/01/24/cosas-de-cerdos/) This is Ignacio "Chuk" Solis, and I'm a member of the Bing family. This board was sent to the Bing Dealer in Spain, Tablas Surf Shop, as a second hand deal, and I'm just giving a try. Pure fun!!! Nice to talk to you...Chuk

Nick sent me this beauty from stamps via surfapig@live.com: Hey Mike, I got a new one. Surfapig is great, I go back and re-read the pig discussions once in a while and I pick up something new every time. Nick

TIKI sent me this via surfapig@live.com:Hi Guys, I have a nickname called Tiki that I've had since 14 and there ar'nt many people I know who would know my real name, so when I got back to making a few boards again TIKI seasnakes was the choice and I decided to have a policy " don't ask me for a clear board ...I don't make em" and as I do all the work and I enjoy every bit of them. A great friend of mine over here ( australia) Roy Meisel , came out from California in !972-73 and brought with him a 1957 Velzy Jacobs 9 foot Balsa, when he arrived short boards were it, hardly anyone rode logs except Roy and a few of us on small days and as the years rolled on I always admired this wonderful board as it also surfed unreal....... so after all these years I took a template ,reversed it and made my pig, the result was fantastic , it would have to be one of the best longboards i've ridden and am hooked on the things, she's 9'7" x 23x 2/3/4 all tinted glass ( I don't do sprays) . I like "D" fins for looks but not for performance, I've used a fully hand foil shape of my own , not as deep as I would put on a log but the result was, with the shape and contour of the bottom, a full concave to concave V, it whips out of turns and is beautiful to drop n climb and down the line. I have seen other Pigs over here as they're getting to be popular with younger loggers and they do work better than most of the other shapes these guys were riding before so it looks good for Pigs, ah! if only Velzy could see the passion for these boards now. Keep up the great site guys and as I make em I'll postem .

Cheers TIKI

casanova sent this to me via surfapig@live.com: Gnar~ hey buddy boy just wanted to send a few pics to the piggy community. An old Santa Barbara logging mate came for a visit and we busted out my flexpig and McTavish pig for a summer slide. There is a new addition to my swine family currently being hatched and fresh pics to come. Casanova - over and out!!

stoked for you matt!!!

pig surfing in texas...and the dead kooks!

2012-01-27T17:55:00.001-08:00

i don't know if it's 'cause my roots are out of texas, or what...but these off shore chocolate milk gulf days speak to me. thank you Robby for reaching out! robby sent the pictures below to me via surfapig@live.com: Hey Mike, Thought I would share: Here are some shots from yesterday in Port Aransas, Texas taken by marinedream.wordpress.com. I was riding my 9’4” flexpig I got from Gene. I’m having a complete blast riding a pig board! Couldn’t be happier. Thanks for all the information on your site. My best, Robby

Eden of DEAD KOOKS sent me this batch of stoke below via surfapig@live.com:Hey mike, hows things. Hope you're enjoying your winter up there. I've been flat out with plenty of new sleds, i've just finished a new one that may just tickle your fancy. anyway have a look and hope you like. EDEN.

yeah EDEN! i like!!! SUPER CLEAN!!! the clean shit!!!!

adam weathered took the surfing photos!

250!!!!!...and the obligatory hodge podge!!!!

2012-01-25T20:28:00.000-08:00

i have an obsession with the piglet. fortunately for me and other piglet enthusiast there exist matt calvani. matt is a skilled craftsman and a devotee of tradition , yet understands tomorrow exist. below is my upcoming surfcraft. currently it is glassed. holy FEE-YUUUCCCCKKKK!!!

i sent matt the below image of my desired finish after he had sent me the shaped blank pic. you have to love that!!!!!
lately i have been working on some crazy mathematics projects. i am more stoked on surfing than ever. however as far as the internet is concerned..it has been more about mathematics than pigs. hence my delay as of late. be that as it may... here is a wee slice of my surf lab. there is yeah-er-auld ( my alpaca sheleighleigh), and spike (my first buck killed and ate on 12/ 22 / 91 off hand - one shot in kinney county, Texas).

jesse sent me this via surfapig@live.com: Was going to send some epic pig shots of town jetty today but camera went in the drink never to be seen again. Still dig reading the stuff you put up keep it up man. Instead of the pics you might enjoy this.

Take it easy man, Jess

cheers Jess! that video makes me think of this one: http://www.folkstreams.net/film%2c188

andy sent me this via surfapig@live.com: Hi Mike, Picked this Royal 9’4 pig today...shaped when he lived over here...sweet eh ? Cheers, Ed

yeah! rob royal is a resin wizard!!!!

gannet sent me this via surfapig@live.com:

Hey Mr Black,Took this pic while on a break from cold Vicco waters @ Lennox Head. Purist will gasp in horror but I'm having a ball on this 10 ft plastic CJ Nelson with a Captain Fins "D". Its all about the ride. Great site keep it up, Gannet

i've been to this point. the whole time i was wishing i had my pig. i love to see pix like this!!!

thank all you 250 for the support!!!!!!!!

!!!!!

2012-01-13T20:52:00.000-08:00

this pic was posted on bing's facebook page. mr. copeland had this to say about it: "This is what happens when you don't put your boards in their bags at night..."

and so was this... you see , this isn't the type of aesthetic i would think of for a pig...however, after spending days drooling over it...the conclusion is drawn. perfection.

al norte!

2012-01-13T05:59:00.001-08:00

my esteemed colleague in the stoke mining department sent me this via surfapig@live.com: Hey Gnar, me and the special lady friend have been surfing a lot and just got back from a three day backpack surf trip to Catalina. had you in mind when i took some of these photos, or rather when Naomi took them. I may or may not have been channeling a little Gnar Gnar. found this garden pig and trail 70 on the same block......... found the tube and a broken foot on the same wave. Blast it! Johnny

BUH-LAS-SIT!!!!!!!!!

fun.

2012-01-11T06:52:00.000-08:00

i came across this picture in the LIFE archives. this picture grabbed my attention. it reminds me of a little wave i surfed a tremendous amount in Nosara. nothing particularly special about the wave, but a fun little wave popping off a rock (somewhat reminiscent of our beloved north l.a. county spot "sequit") . crowded. the wave in Nosara was surfed by twice this many short boarders all hoping to be kelly one day. i think i'd prefer to share this wave with these dudes, and the dory!

1/8/11

2012-01-08T14:18:00.000-08:00

i poached sliders today with a buddy and his brother (who now i would consider a buddy too!). my buddy Eric rode my feral pig, while i rode another board of mine. the board i was riding felt like it had and anchor attached to its skeg. where as Eric with his D fin was projecting out of bottom tuns, getting some nice curl shoots, and getting some cut backs all the way to the beach!!! i have no pics of the session. as if some nuance of sliders point came into my "smart phone" and said "ye shall NOT record!!!!". in other words, my camera would not activate. i mean , my phone , while at sliders would not take photos today . as soon as i left sliders it was good to go. CLASSIC. either way, i was stoked to get some salt water in me blood. stoked to share some sliders with a buddy.

the photo above was poached from Eric's blog.

hodgepodge!!

2012-01-07T12:57:00.001-08:00

turns out there has been some swell in the water.

Gregory Pearson sent me his latest creation. A tweak of a "dora" template I am told. looking BEAUTIFUL.

nicked the top photo from the late sc's site.

Greek pig!!!!

2012-01-05T17:37:00.001-08:00

Othon (otto) Mentis and I exchanged a few emails via surfapig@live.com:

hey mike it's otto the guy from greece who's making the pig!! hope everything is going fine! finally yesterday we finished shaping the board and it's a beauty!!! there's one more question i want to ask you.. you think is better to put a glass on fin or a finbox? my problem is that the tail is almost excactly the same thickness as the fin box and i m gonna get an extra inch from the glassing... so maybe me and my friend think it might be better to put a glass on fin ( i dont remember the dimension of the tail it's 7 o'clock in the morning and i 've been drinking ) you think that the extra one inch could brake the whole tail if i crash anything with the fin??? the truth is i prefer the fin box in case of travelling
anyway i hope i made any sence!

thanx
otto

============================================================================

I understand how nice a box is for traveling, but ask yourself how much you travel. If you aren't traveling that much I'd go with the glass on. Glass on is strong and classic.

Cheers!

============================================================================

Hey mike! We finally made it! HA! And it's super fun i love it! It turns good and it noserides. Man thanx a lot you 've been very helpfull we wouldn't be able to do it right if it wasn't you!
So here are some pictures of the pig in and out of the water!!

FUCK YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

post like this humble me.

surfapig this new year!!

2012-01-01T22:30:00.000-08:00

not at sliders...

2011-12-29T15:35:00.000-08:00

sometimes its nice to see your old stompin grounds!

scored some small beautiful ones today! thanks Chris for drivin!
the mike special! ESAUS!!!!

if it aint broke don't fix it!

2011-12-27T17:25:00.000-08:00

well yet another day at sliders. seriously?! so stoked to have this as my local!!!!!!

yep.
margaret calvani sent me this link to mypaipoboards.org . she received the link from Glen Sakamoto . its a link to an interview with john wegener. he has this and another bing belly board. SUPER SICK!!!!

holidaze , and good cheer!!

2011-12-26T15:25:00.000-08:00

ye ole sliders point. i love this wave!!!!
shared some of these waves with my good buddy chris T. cheers mate for meeting up here this morning for yawn patrol! i scored one of these PERFECT lefts today. SO STOKED!! sometimes the best christmas presents are ones that aren't bought!!! ...just made.
yeah.
i met a guy named paul on the beach. he had his camera and got this one of me today before he split. thanks paul. i guess you could say i never got the memo that says "D fins don't turn".

BLAST IT!!!!

ho ho ho!

2011-12-20T09:17:00.001-08:00

9'6" , 22 3/4", 3 1/8" PERFECTION. $1275. contact margaret : sales@bingsurf.com

this board is in San Diego. they ship these guys anywhere. this particular feral pig is offered through surfapig only. click here to read the write up about this board on the BING website.

hodge podge name drop city!!!!!

2011-12-18T12:28:00.000-08:00

obligatory clean wave.

my buddy sends me the text below, when i responded "how did he know me?" i was half wondering if the response was going to be "you crashed his party and made an ass out of yourself." instead i received...
my same buddy was chumming it up with wingnut. turns out wingnut approves of Jazz the Glass! classic. my wife kissed wingnut (long before we were married) on his birthday in costa rica about 12 years ago. she is the voice of flossy in Jazz the glass. I was thinking how funny it would be if wingnut heard that 6 degrees of separation tale!!

surfed it this am at SanO

2011-12-16T19:16:00.000-08:00

gallagher surfboards, laying it down.: "solid balsa, surfed it at SanO this morning."

here we go!

2011-12-16T06:13:00.000-08:00

this year FLEW by. many changes, all good.

CHEERS!!

bing feral pig for sale!!!!! 9'6"

2011-12-13T20:30:00.001-08:00

9'6" , 22 3/4", 3 1/8" PERFECTION. $1275. contact margaret : sales@bingsurf.com

this board is in San Diego. they ship these guys anywhere.

12/11/11

2011-12-11T16:21:00.001-08:00

had a great day today. tutored in the morning, cleared the "honey do" list in the late morning, caught a MAGNIFICENT "in-between shift" sesh at sliders. so many people were walking up as i was walking down. ...yeah! today was a day that reminds you how important every decision you make is.

worlds best surfers.
this next sequence had to be posted.

a clean one , screaming "pig city!!"
yeah, i was ready to own that shit.
i'm digging the sky.
a bit inconsistent, and at times the peaks were scattered.
my buddy texted me this photo. i don't know who made this installment, but got dam is it NUTZ!!!

matt's piglet!!!

2011-12-10T13:37:00.000-08:00

i'm totally obsessed with these right now. 3'10'' , 17''

Feral Pig sold!!!!

2011-12-10T13:06:00.001-08:00

10' , 23 1/4" it doesn't get any better than this. $1275 . contact margaret at sales@bingsurf.com

mike... check it!

2011-12-09T19:27:00.000-08:00

my buddy jay-dub sent me this via surfapig@live.com, his buddy tim stamps sent it to him.

hey jw-

here's the pig i just made myself....
9'0" x 23" x 3 1/4"...kind of a 'stub-pig' ....
single box for fin experimentation...

--
tim stamps
stamps surfboards
po box 486
seal beach, ca 90740
562.715.6547

operation amped.

2011-12-07T20:14:00.000-08:00

yeah.

rob's current favorite and a glorious serving of chocolate milk!!!

2011-12-07T09:47:00.000-08:00

rob sent this to me via surfapig@live.com: "Fwiw, here's my current favourite board... just can't seem to stay off it really. 9'6"x22"xeyeballed PMP all funked up with some wacky resin as usual! I'll bring it with me in January, along with a spin off model I've been working on.."my old beach break. seeing this picture brought me back. days like this are the stuff permanent memories are made from. i have old photos of days like this somewhere. the sky, the water, the shells/sand..the debris on the sand. the oil rig...
the underside of rob's pmp. rob is a resin mad man!!!!!!!

the clean shit.

2011-12-04T13:24:00.000-08:00

crazy weekend. shared sliders today with a new friend.

evan comes up to me at the board swap yesterday and says "are you black?". for which i reply: "yea".

after chumming it up at the swap yesterday, we exchange numbers and viola! sliders sesh in the mornin. evan is based north of point conception. he seemed quite comfortable down here!
obligatory line up shot!
...uhh.. did i say this was the CLEAN SHIT?!
yeah.
clean template! (evan caught a few on my feral pig)
Evan!! cheers! it was great to meet you and share some stoke!!! (we exchanged boards today for a bit. i started off on my feral pig {fucking mental...had such a blast..nose rides, curl shoots, great cutbacks} then evan asked to give my board a go. i was stoked to swap. the first wave i caught on evan's ...the board felt kinda sticky. it was backside...and it was just a pure curl shooter... but i stuck it out and caught a few more. his board works well. it is quite alive when you are on the nose. it is great to live in a day where shapers are checking shit out, doing different things, figuring out this or that!)
then i received a text from my boy johnny. it said "ham sammich" with this pic attached. did i mention ...."the clean shit"?
i responded with this pic and the statement "toofless". back in june i got my two front teeth "repaired". i had busted them skateboarding and bmx-ing when i was a grom. i had to get root canals and crowns. last night on my way to bing's 1 year anniversary on the hill event, my wife , my daughter and i stopped to have some great sushi in ocean side. i was eating some edamame when my front crown came off. fuck it. we go to the event, and as i am trying to explain to margaret how my crown came off, it comes off and falls on the floor. i pick it up and put it back in and continue to try to talk. it comes off again and i try to catch it, juggling this front tooth. it was funny as fuck. 'corse there were people there with cameras. margaret, glen sakamoto, josh hall got a super fucked up video of my toofles ass! EPIC!!!!! any way, here is yet another toofles shot!
check the video!!!!
i poached these from the bing face book page. this shit was classic. the one time i get to get a pic with THE MAN, bing copeland...i am toofless. EHHH -- AHH -- PIC!

fuck yes.
yeah josh!!

doh board swap!!!! bing event!!!!!

2011-12-03T16:29:00.000-08:00

doh board swap. this event makes sacred craft look like the fucked up circus it is. this quigg below ruined me. 3k. not today!

this board was rad too.
i held bing's jacket while he signed this board. HISTORY!!!!!!!! ha!!!
soon to go to bing's 1 year get up at surf indian.....

bing 1 year on the hill!!!

2011-11-29T19:39:00.000-08:00

click on the pic it'll blow up so you can read it!

saturday at surf indian in san diego! 6 - 10!

11/27/11

2011-11-27T17:20:00.000-08:00

check the new lams for the upcoming feral pigs. YEAH!

we blasted an 18.5 lb pig this past week. so good!
thank you sliders! its been fun round these here parts.
left overs into jambalaya!

pigs in the UK!!!

2011-11-19T21:08:00.000-08:00

mister griffster sent this to me via surfapig@live.com:"Hey Mike, I've been following your blog for several years now, and been meaning to post these pigs to you for a while, I have no excuse apart from being a lazy ass... Here's 2 from the quiver, one that Rob Lion (Royal) shaped for me back last year - It's a Post Modern Pig 9'6" x 23 x 16 7/8 x 16 / 1/2. Nicely pinched rails, concave to belly roll with tail lift, with scooped tail and very slight S-deck about 22-25lb. Rocker is probably a little flatter up front than normal and absolutely flies when pressing the accelerator. Rob's now working over at Santa Cruz Board Builders so check him out if you're in the area. The other is your standard Michel Junod Pignar - 9 8 1/2 x 22 3/4 x 16 1/2 fore and aft with the standard step concave through to roll and traditional piggy rocker at about 25lb. Weighted beautifully to generate it's own trim speed and noserides better than some out and out noseriders I've ridden. Both boards leave you grinning from ear to ear! Keep up the good work Sir and long live the pig!"

it's post like this that validate this effort. i get so stoked to see what else is out there.

mega hodge podge!!!!!

2011-11-17T05:19:00.001-08:00

my good buddy miles sent me these super epic texas day photos. he says "DIG THE PIG" : Rode the original flexipig that I got used from Gene in June for the first time for a full session (5 hours) this morning and it’s a blast and nose rides very well. 9.7 and like 28 lbs and flat as an ironing board but that and the 7-8 second swell made it pretty easy to catch waves. I think the fact that it’s only 9.7 made it easy for me to put it where I wanted in a hurry compared to the monsters I usually ride.

my good buddy andrew is having an art show in Oceanside Friday (514 coast highway) . Be there!!!!!!!

john cherry sent this to me via surfapig@live.com: "Hi Mike, I just posted a couple pigs I built for Japan. 3” chambered balsa stringers. The template is the same one I put together for Bobby Donnelly’s pig that we shaped just before I got your VJ to restore. If you recall, when I laid my template over your VJ, it lined up identically with the exception that my template was about 1/16” wider through the middle third, giving an ever so slight curve in the mid rail more so than the VJ. I love the template. BTW……I love your new Bing!!!!! Aloha Bro, JC"

andy byrne sent this to me via surfapig@live.com: Hey Mike!Been lurking your blog ever since it popped up. Love the stoke sharing going on!So I did a craigslist swap this weekend. I ended up trading a 9ft Ryan Lovelace Pointer (which to begin with is a very piggish/chip outline) for a real deal Terry Martin 9'6'', 3.5'' double volan pig. This thing is MEAN. Probably weighs about 15lbs. Anyway I took it out at Porto yesterday for some chest high soft waves. I couldn't believe how well it rode. Plus I even got some cheater 5's in. I was a little worried that it would be a straight shooter boat. It couldn't be more of the opposite. Anyway, super stoked on it. It's the first pig I've ever owned and I think it will not be the last. Oink Oink. Here's a couple pics. Maybe you've seen it around. Andy www.theanchored.blogspot.com

a little departing shot from south of sliders:

"from my lens to you"

2011-11-14T18:35:00.000-08:00

randy LaBrie sent this to me via surfapig@live.com: Mr. Black , Dan K. introduced me to your blog. I am now a frequent visitor! Enjoy, Randy LaBrie "808"

thank you Randy!!

11/13/11

2011-11-13T07:44:00.000-08:00

i was north of sliders this past weekend. scored some great waves with my buddy.

islands.
funky faces...

it wasn't that perfectly groomed texture. however, at times...there were moments when the wind would die, and you'd be flying across a beautiful glassy, powerful wall of energy. the color of the water was great.

not at sliders....

2011-11-11T14:50:00.000-08:00

i love surfing at different waves. i felt like i was on some mini vacation today. it was strange to be back at ye old stompin grounds. sliders is such a down the line race-y wave. the queen folds over on her self. it was fantastic to get the ferral pig on this point. i could feel her in a different way. it was such a joy to commit the rail to full on cut backs, such buttery bottom turns, at times i was trimmed out confidently in some beefy spinners. just what the doctor ordered!
surfing with a buddy, good waves...NICE!!!

the best motivation out there!

2011-11-10T20:45:00.000-08:00

swine for lunch!!!

2011-11-10T05:59:00.001-08:00

jason a texted me this picture yesterday. it said "swine for lunch. I love my 2 hour lunch break". I was lecturing about the consequences resulting from the existence and uniqueness of a line parallel to a given line running through a point not on the given line. needless to say, when i saw the pic i got super stoked!!!! yeah JASON!!!

some content from down under!!!

2011-11-09T05:57:00.000-08:00

david platt sent me the following via surfapig@live.com: " Hi Mike. I’ve had a couple of McDonagh pigs come in for some minor work over the last couple of weeks. Both of these boards are in great condition for their age. Greg McDonagh was one of the main players in Brookvale in the 60’s. He struck a deal with Joey Cabell while he was out here for the 64 world champs to add a Joey Cabell ‘Custom Special’ to the McDonagh range of models.

The Cabell measures in at 9'8 ¾” x 21 ½” x 3 ¼”. The wide point is 9 ½” behind centre. The nose is 15 ½”. The tail is 15 ½”. The pod is 5". The second board would have been built in 66/67. It measures in at 9'2 ½” x 22 ½” x 2 11/16”. The wide point is 14 ¾” behind centre, as is the thickness. The nose is 16 3/8”. The tail is 17 ¾”. The is pod 6". The rails are pinched. Enjoy. Regards, Platty."

nathan oldfield sent me the following via surfapig@live.com: "Hello mates. I just produced a new short for The Critical Slide Society:"

Hey Ho Let's Go Surfing from Nathan Oldfield on Vimeo.

big steve's kellogg sam!!!

2011-11-06T14:37:00.000-08:00

steve brought this by today: "Arguably the closest livin relative to sam via paul gross and passed on to spencer kellogg. this IS the board that pigs went to after '66. 9'4" 22 1/2" 3 1/4" and very hull/ bladed! everybody needs one in their quiver and spence has the lineage. Super stoked on this design!!"

found this fucker chillen where he shouldn't be!
rainy day video.

gnar gnar's pignar.

2011-11-05T19:56:00.000-07:00

traded an old board for this pignar today.

this board is SO WEIRD. look at this shot of the nose below. i don't even know what to say! its like there is a brick glued to the nose! it's this big square chunk of foam. the tail is similarly chunky. this board is unlike anything else i have in my quiver. i've been on the look out for one of these guys. stoked to finally have one...and to trade for it.

chris's olson!

2011-11-05T19:52:00.000-07:00

thanks chris! it was great to see you today!

steve's fluid juice wave slider

2011-11-05T19:28:00.000-07:00

steve sent this to me via surfapig@live.com: "Here you go Mike. Shaper: Adrian Phillips, Fluid Juice Surfboards. Board: Waveslider. 9ft 6 x 23.5 X 3 wide. 16.5 nose and 16 ¼ soft diamond tail.

Been surfing a ‘performance noserider’ for the last two/three years and found it a pretty good all round board design but started to hear quite a few good things about pig shapes. The design wasn’t on the top of my list to be honest as I was thinking more traditional noserider type log. They say you should listen to the advice of a good shaper so that I did and was recommended this design. I’m not a good surfer, far from it but took the board out today for the first time in waist to chest high peelers and had a ball! Gets into the waves early, turns great and moves around on the wave really well for the longest board I’ve got .... better than my other slightly smaller ‘modern’ longboard. It also glides like nothing else.....soooo smoothJ I often bog a rail on my other longboard – trying to turn the board too quick for my skill level I reckon – but the continuous pulling in to the smaller nose on this piggy shape seems to work well for me and lets me get away with my mistakes. The shaper says this is his ‘Waveslider’ model which has been continually updated and tweaked here and there as a result of surfing feedback from customers, test riders and of course himself. The pics don’t do the board justice....it looks fantastic and the finishing is immaculate. This one is a keeper for sure and will be enjoying the East coast of Scotland for many years. Steve"

wait....WHAT?!!!

2011-11-03T05:58:00.000-07:00

tom mahady sent me this via surfapig@live.com: Here are some pics of my personal ride. Eps foam, epoxy lam, UV Clear gloss coat and a quad.

Tom Mahady

MahadySurfboards

i love getting submissions like this. i feel it represents what this site is all about. i'm stoked that people check this site out. I am stoked they are putting their own spin on things, or perhaps doing their own thing and taking the time to send it my way. I missed the quad part when I read Tom's email. I was looking at the template on the first photo, and was like "huh...clean. is it short? how wide is it?" then i was off to the second photo. "is that a down rail? ...wait...WHAT?!" there are many different ways to skin a pig i suppose. i have my 5 elements however, many people feel a single element (wide point aft) is THE defining characteristic of a pig. and there is where we find this board, and that board donnie had at sacred craft.

board for sale and ...the hawk's lair!

2011-11-01T07:12:00.000-07:00

david town sent me this via surfapig@live.com: Howzit Mike! Hanging out here in Haleiwa just after surfing head high north shore. We sat at the peak just south of Velzyland and had one of the best surf sessions ever. Velzyland was going off, even a few outer reef waves came through. Anyways, the pic attached is me standing at the foot of Velzyland with my Surf-a-pig shirt. take care, David

tyler sent this to me via surfapig@live.com: hey surfapig! I'm a longtime blog-lover and Davenport Longboards rider and we're selling my Pig-Lite model and wanted to give you and your readers first dibs! She's in amazing shape with no dings, even that of the pressure kind. She keeps it classy and leash plug-less. tyler's email is: elesmusic@gmail.com $500

poaching with friends!

2011-10-30T07:59:00.001-07:00

it was a great time, sliding sliders with friends.

who says chivalry is dead?
this little reed sculpture has been migrating it's way around the beach.

i love this stuff!

2011-10-25T07:04:00.001-07:00

patric sent this to me via surfapig@live.com: Hey Mike,

Its Patrick (Capitola Dewey Weber Pig-September 5, 2009 post). I wanted to share some photos my father shot of me surfing my pig last weekend. I like reading your blog and wanted to make another contribution. Keep mining the stoke, Patrick Cady P.S. I have a math question for you. Is there a way to prove that every rational number can be expressed as a fraction of two coprime integers. I have been taking this for granted as part of the definition of rational numbers, but from what I can tell the coprime part isn't in the definition. I'm writing a proof for root 2 is irrational (by contradiction).

needless to say, i love the photo contributions, and was stoked to get the math question!!!! here was my response:

The fact that your ratio in the "square root two" proof is a reduced fraction (a ratio of coprime integers) is essential. It is the fact that is contradicted.

More generally speaking, we build the rational numbers from the integers. integer over non zero integer . it is a theorem that every integer has a unique factorization. So, since I can factor every integer one and only one way (as a product of primes) , and since any number over itself is the value "one". and since one is the identity element of multiplication, it follows that any rational number can be written as a ratio of co prime integers.

standing on the beach

2011-10-23T15:27:00.000-07:00

bobby D has a beautiful VELZY

2011-10-19T19:42:00.000-07:00

yeah.

pig mania!

2011-10-19T19:38:00.000-07:00

jason is honoring 2680!!!!

Nathan Oldfiend's 9'6" piggery!

2011-10-19T05:52:00.000-07:00

Nathan sent this to me via surfapig@live.com:

when i see the picture below, i'm wondering if he was saying to me...

"yea mate...it doesn't have a D fin or skeg or whatever you want to call it. but look at it! ... i made it, SO STOKED!!"
Yea Nathan!!!! Nathan made a few movies, and has a rad blog. check them out!!! I am so stoked to get photos of other peoples creations.

jason's super clean stamps pig.

2011-10-16T09:38:00.001-07:00

like it? check out tim's site for more. or contact tim at ts@surfboardsbystamps.com or 562 715 6547

9'6" of the clean shit!

sliders point.

2011-10-14T07:05:00.000-07:00

20 and 23

2011-10-13T06:30:00.000-07:00

pounds and months ago respectively.

thanks for taking me to my van miles! and thanks for the pics!

remembering a good buddy

2011-10-12T05:53:00.000-07:00

chizel dick. his name is charlie, we dedicated INVASION! from planet C to him. he earned the name chizel dick. this photo makes me laugh so hard i nearly shit myself every time i see it.

my parents occupy about 300 acres in the Texas hill country, a great spot on the planet. this particular summer there were a crew of us out there. the guy in the background in the yellow shirt is the brother of rev speef. in the forground, chizel's shirt says "relax i'm a professional". my mom and dad had just left us at the ranch for a week or so, we were charged with fucking these oaks over into fire wood. we had been out in the bush for a good couple days. one evening around the ranch house this big fucker came up in the meadow. chizel grabbed my dad's m1. he blasted this guys ass. literally, shot him in the ass. it was dark. this guy fell like a sack of potatoes. we continued drinking beers and didn't give a fuck about him. this meadow is like a golf course, my dad keeps it debris free. its probably a 2 acre front yard of sorts. in the morning we wake up and there is this huge feral pig, just laying in it looking rigor-mortised. we keep after the wood , thinking we'll drag the pig somewhere eventually before my dad gets back. well we are getting after the wood so hard , by the end of the day , the last thing we want to do is monkey fuck a stinky ass rigored swine. a couple days pass, the fucker is still there every morning. looking stiffer and stiffer. the night before my parents are due to return, it pours rain. now we have a slippery rotting dead pile of stink. the morning of the day my parents are due to show up, we know it is time to drag that fucker off some where. we tie him with some rope and start dragging him. well we put him on this trailer thing we had and start dragging him in that up in the hills. the trailer breaks. we tie him up with some ropes and continue dragging that stinky slippery pile of filth up in the hills. the rope breaks, finally we pull out this chain you see in the pic. wrapping this hog with a chain is a terrible , terrible thing to do. the stink immediately causes a gag reflex. this pile of rotting flesh had ticks and maggots everywhere. we get him up to this "hog pile" of sorts. we had a few other rotten carcasses from other feral pigs up on this one spot. my buddy in the yellow shirt is that far away because the stink was that bad. this entire journey was a colossal dumb ass moment. i hadn't laughed that hard EVER. we were laughing our asses off at how fucking stupid we were, we were paying for it. charlie o.d. on oxycotin and some other shit back in 2005. RIP buddy.

the sea and the circus pt 2. (name drop city!!!)

2011-10-10T07:04:00.000-07:00

obligatory slider shot!

all of the photos below were "borrowed" from BING's facebook page.

i missed this one. yeah matt! i'm so stoked to be around someone with so much enthusiasm toward surfboards.
here is magic matt, or matt the magician dropping knowledge no doubt. matt's understanding of fin surface area to tail width changed my life.
i look like a douche nozzle here. in my mind i wanted to grab the board and dry hump the rail. i should have.
tom moss. i was the ignorant gremmie with tom saturday. we're just two humans talking. he was patient with me when i told him my story of how my mom didn't let me sell my boards. so i have a few boards laying about. he said he had a ton of 'em. that comment just went in and out of my brain. then i carried on about how i sold some of my boards to fund INVASION!, then went through another purge in 2009 to fund this pig campain. he mentioned his wish list of 3 boards. he said he was selling a board that day. he also mentioned he has never sold a board, but today he is selling the board to make room for a board that was in the mail some EPIC board that had been on his wish list. it then came up that he took alot of the photos in the bing book. i mentioned my buddy tom ridings that had a few of the boards in that book. Tom Moss grabs the bing book and starts flipping through it. he is saying "these are mine", "these are mine", "these are mine" ... over and over and over again. i then realized i had just just been taken to school. a humble guy.
Toru from surf garage. (Matt i promise i won't do what i did just before this picture was taken to you again.)
yeah josh!!! stoked to see you and to catch up!!
I was super stoked to catch up with every one. this sacred craft felt good. I was super psyched to see people from every where. I was psyched to finally meet rob from slide 65. he had a crew with him. that shit is awesome. it was great to finally meet Glen Sakamoto from liquid salt. super stoked to see John Cherry. his stuff is amazing!!!! It was so nice to just sit back and speak to people about past times and pig surfboards. I had the chance to spend some time with Marc Andreini and Scott . I wish those dudes were my neighbors.

the circus and the sea

2011-10-08T20:14:00.001-07:00

yeah.

the walk down today.
after sesh reflection.
A frame.
these guys are the stalwarts. always there , yet unable to trim.
donald brink. thank god i know him.
mr wessen. holy shit. looking feral. yes.
chairbang, tienyor negro, chirs. yes.

thank you bing copeland, matt calvani, and margaret calvani!!!

Sacred Craft, Del Mar 2011

2011-10-04T06:34:00.000-07:00

On Oct 8 my BING FERAL PIG and I will be at the BING booth from 12 - 3. Please come over and check it out! I'd be stoked to talk to anyone and everyone about design , function, concept...whatever! I'll feel like a kid hanging out in Santa's toy show room!

Matt made a gorgeous board to be auctioned off Sat evening!

help a sister out!

2011-10-02T20:29:00.001-07:00

surfsister is reluctantly putting this pig surfboard up for sale. she contacted me via surfapig@live.com: Hi, Mike! Here are the photos of the flex pig with the red fin. I don't want to sell, but the kid needs braces immediately. Since our finances are such that we are now a cash only family, I've got to make some cash appear so that we can get a big chunk of the payment out of the way right now. We have no insurance, therefore we'll be paying for the braces out-of-pocket. I'm letting the board go for $1000. Anyone who's interested in it can contact me at sistersurfer@gmail.com Thanks, Mike!! I don't want to sell. I also don't want my kid growing up $#%@! up teeth. He will always be more important than my quiver. Always.

absolutely surf sister, family is EVERYTHING.

eden and dead kooks!!!

2011-10-02T19:03:00.001-07:00

eden sent this to me via surfapig@live.com: Hey mike, hows things? To provide a little context first, i live on the Gold Coast and Matteo is one of my close friends. I know you guys are close and i have been a fan of what you're doing. I've been shaping under my own label Dead Kooks for a while and my latest board is something i wanted to share with you and your fans. Named Babi Guling - that's balinese for sucking pig- its 9'9 x 23 x 3. I hand shape all my boards and take pride in what we're creating. My buddy was kind enough to put a clip together of this board coming together which you can check vi http://vimeo.com/29543332 My website is simply http://deadkooks.com/ Have a look. I hope you enjoy, and would be stoked to hear from you soon. Eden -TDKS

check the video! this shit is so well done!!!!
thanks eden! that is what this blog is all about!

another day surfing with friends!

2011-09-30T09:35:00.000-07:00

clean day out there. so stoked to be out there on my board with friends!

saw this flower today.
lagoon.

"matt the magician", and the one board quiver.

2011-09-29T12:59:00.000-07:00

this is the best surfboard i have ever seen or touched or surfed. period. strangers and non surfers are telling me that my surfing is "beautiful" when riding this board. i have had beach walkers say that to me on two separate occasions. random shortboarders are going out of their way to chat with me about the board, and my surfing on it. i am in shock that a board can function like this. i am generally enthusiastic about new surfboards...and every surfboard has a feeling that is worth being enthusiastic about...but this here bing feral pig...it IS the best functioning surfboard i have ever had under my feet. so stoked to own this board. and to surf it in these waves this morning! it is a great feeling to bring boards to a skilled craftsman and tell him how those boards rode in the conditions i rode them in, and then...have him keep that in mind while we discuss numbers...and then have this board be birthed. i was stoked just looking at it, then when i felt it in my hand, i was shocked...now experiencing the effortless turns, the speed, the stability, the nose rides... this is THE pig.

my buddy is selling his anderson slide and glide!

2011-09-29T12:46:00.000-07:00

this is the exact board our beloved chad marshall is shredding in the following link!

$425 email : dgeary4@me.com

...feral pig!

2011-09-28T06:15:00.000-07:00

looking forward to tomorrow!

why i love pig boards.

2011-09-27T07:00:00.000-07:00

this shot sums it up. i see this dudes face , and all i can think is "acupulco gold, or maui wow-ee" or what ever they were chuffin back in the day. i'm not sure if he even knows he is holding a pig instead of the pocket rocket he had been riding at the santa monica pier just the last swell. maybe i am totally off. maybe he IS smiling like he just ate peyote because he is holding a pig. i would be. that board is classic. electrical tape...not duct tape. electrical tape. the thing about a pig...a proper pig, it's gong to maintain it's essence even if you have electrical tape on the nose. that board under this dude's arm still trimmed, still cutback, and probably still gave him a bit of a nose ride by the break wall.

thanks jason for the link!

east side sliders!

2011-09-25T10:37:00.000-07:00

Eric Dranginis sent me this via surfapig@live.com: A couple days ago, the day after overhead bombs. Our east side version of sliders point!

NICE!!

the bing feral pig is AMAZING!

2011-09-24T11:04:00.000-07:00

i love sliders point. i love this BING FERAL PIG. today was a fun day down there. i am amazed at this board's function. feels super fast...frictionless, it holds trim , yet transitions out into bottom turns effortlessly. the turns feel like i am on a magic carpet. the waves were kind of steep today, some of them were about chest high. the action on the nose surprised me. i was able to keep my speed and control my line through a steep inside section. this board is the whole package! i'm tripping out! where has this board been all my life?!

yeah jason! i'm lovin the shirt!!
obligatory bird shot!

maiden voyage on the bing feral pig!!!!!

2011-09-23T19:52:00.001-07:00

i slipped out after work this avo and slid a quick 10 (miniature) waves on my bing feral pig. slid is the right word in this case. this board seems frictionless. i am so stoked on how this board feels so free in the water, yet is stable to walk on. it feels as if my other boards have been dragging kelp. i always thought if a board was stable to walk toward the nose on, it wasn't easily maneuvered. well, that doesn't seem to be the case. matt has such a great understanding of fin to tail width ratio. this board feels AMAZING in the water.

sure... it was only a quick session in thigh high pier dumpers...but i felt this thing! to say i am excited about pushing it through all conditions is like saying there is water in the ocean. i want to sleep with this board...in the ocean.
my wife shot these quick little waves on her phone while she was holding our one year old daughter. it was the first time my daughter saw me surf. she didn't really know what she was looking at! after the sesh, we had a nice meal on the pier. that is how its DONE!

the bing feral pig!!!!!!

2011-09-22T07:08:00.000-07:00

oh my!!! the shape of the rail... the shape of the bottom... the subtle consistent rocker, balanced with the weight. i have never picked up a board and had it sing to me like this one does. 10' , 3 5/16" thick (i'm 205 lbs), wide point 6" back, 16 1/4" nose, 16 3/4" tail. it has been such and honor and pleasure to bring boards to a talented craftsman and explain my experiences on the previous boards. i am not one to say this particular design element contributes to this functionality. i feel many elements contribute to a boards functionality. some design elements contribute to one function attribute more than any other design element that much is certain...but once you think of how each design element inner acts with each other...entropy! at least in my mind. so to design this board, i brought many of my boards to matt calvani at BING SURFBOARDS and told each boards story (how it functioned in what conditions). he felt the boards. we talked numbers...and the BING FERAL PIG was born. it is shocking to feel this board under my arm. it feels like what i might have come up with if i could magically create what my mind is looking for.

this is the hog wallow.

2011-09-21T07:17:00.000-07:00

today is the day!

2011-09-20T07:10:00.001-07:00

well... it sounds like today is that day. i am very excited about today!

in honor of talk like a pirate day.

2011-09-19T11:21:00.000-07:00

sliders with a buddy!

2011-09-18T10:09:00.000-07:00

i caught a few fun ones with my buddy jason today at sliders!

just what the doctor ordered!

humility and honor...part 2

2011-09-16T18:46:00.001-07:00

this post pretty much validates this blog. this is what this blog is all about. so stoked to see this project of dave's come together!!!

dt: Mike, I've been following your blog for a while now and been greatly inspired. Your art is awesome and detailed information is priceless. I recently purchased a balsa wood blank and plan on carving out a pig. In no way am I a professional shaper, just someone who lives in Central Oregon and vintage surfboards are hard to come across. I was hoping to bother you for a couple minutes to trace an outline of your Balsa Velzy and fin. With this tracing I'll be able to make a template and be off and running. When I can get out to the ocean I ride a custom Cooperfish Hornet and prior to me breaking the board a vintage D fin Yater. I have both boards to provide a working "idea" of other aspects of shape/form.

mb: dave i'll do it. send me your address and be patient. i have some butcher paper. i'll trace the outline and send it to you. take pictures of the process, i'll post it up! thanks for the support!! cheers!!

dt: Awesome!!!

Dave Town

xxx xx xxxxxxxx Ave

Bend, Oregon 97701

Thanks a bunch

mb: Dave , I got your template drawn. I should probably get it in the mail this week!

dt: Awesome!!!! Thank you so much is an understatement.

mb: i'll shoot you an email when i mail it!!!

dt: Forgot to say that I can send you some money for any expenses. Let me know how much and I will get it in the mail.

mb: david, don't worry about it! if anything send me something i can't buy.

dt: Got home from a walk with the family to find a big white tube. Thanks again. Couple pics of my practice fin. Koa wood makes any hack look talented. I have to finish putting a hot coat on a different D fin and then it will end up in the mail heading your direction. No pics of that fin. Dave

mb: Stoked you received it. You are off to a great start. I'll keep a file with all the pics you send me. I'll post it up once you finish it. Thanks for the updates! I'm stoked to see things develop. Keep me posted!!

dt: One in the rafters and a second one all cut up so I can chamber farther down the road.

dt: Hey Mike, Progress has been slow, but I have the blank tack glued back together for rough shaping. I am still getting the rocker to a good point before I cut the outline. I still haven't forgotten to send you that skeg I made. I need to polish it first then it will hit the mail. I sure am bumbed I am going to miss your pig roast. That is going to be one awesome event. Hopefully next year. Later, Dave

mb: david made the fin below for me as a gift for hooking up the tracing!
dt: Glad you like it. Looks like you are getting some good waves this summer. Pretty jelous. Take care Dave

dt: More pics. Outline cut, rocker almost finished and rail bands are coming together.

dt: Mike, Headed down to Santa Barbara to visit the folks this Saturday and thinking that I might be in your neck of the woods Tuesday morning/afternoon for a little surf session. Tentative plans are to surf San-o Tues morning with another buddy. If you are gonna be in the water here or somewhere nearby this day it would be cool to meet up and catch some waves. I'll be more than happy to bring some iced brews from the great northwest to share the post session stoke. Hope all is well. Dave

mb: i kooked it here. i wasn't able to meet up with dave!!!

dt: Well, I finally got tired of sanding and sanding. Not as perfect as I wanted, but it was time to move on. These pics are the board with two cheater coats to seal the wood. It could be a week or so before I get to glassing cause my mancation is over and its time to get back to work.

dt: Finally Finished. Glassing went pretty well especially since it has been over 10 years since I last glassed a board. Finished dims are 9' 16.5"n 22.5"w -9'' behind center 17.5''t 2 7/8'' thick 3.5"rocker nose 2" rocker tail weighing in at 21lbs non-chambered.

Thanks again for your help in getting me the outline and all the awesome info on surfapig.

Talk to you soon,

Dave

thank you david! this is awesome!!!!!!

WOW!!!!!

2011-09-14T20:16:00.000-07:00

what the F_CK?!!!!!! matt keeps sending me these quick shots of the board in progress!! thank you matt!!!!!

what can I say?! I have never been this stoked for any board!!!! should be ready VERY SOON!!!!!!!!!!!!!
in designing this board, matt and I focused on tradition. we put function as the highest priority, and aesthetic second. as far as function, we're designing this board to feel stable, while simultaneously going where you want it to when you want it to. when considering aesthetic, i thought giving the board the feeling we pulled it out of some hidden BING vault would honor the traditional design we were looking for. fortunately for me, matt's eyes, and mind understand these ideas better than mine ever could.

pre pinlines!!!!!!!!!!

2011-09-13T06:39:00.000-07:00

the eyes of the bing feral pig!!!

before the pinlines....

mustache

2011-09-12T18:08:00.001-07:00

dreaming of the bing feral pig.

thinking of all the empty point surf going un-surfed.

weazel

2011-09-12T17:59:00.001-07:00

weazel shot this photo when we were filming jazz.

concept.

2011-09-12T17:34:00.000-07:00

this is a concept sketch for our bing feral pig.

words can't describe how excited i am.

law 0 , mike 1

2011-09-12T17:30:00.001-07:00

that feels good. what ticket?

yes andrew! "kinda of mean stuff as i would say...what Babylon deal with?! I and I control to the fullest...REMOVE YA!!...wicked show"

if i played drums, i would hope to do it with this much pizzaz.

the bing feral pig gets a blue fin.

2011-09-07T18:43:00.000-07:00

oh MY! i am psyched out of my mind!!!!!!

around the bend from sliders!

2011-09-07T07:02:00.000-07:00

Ray Orate sent me this via surfapig@live.com: Ahoy! crowds went home and swell continues around the bend from sliders point. Jazzed the glass on my 4'10 Avila sim piglet. EPIC! " I hope all you stoke junkies enjoyed that round of swell!!!!!!!!Blackstoke, we should meet up next time! Also "Sliding my days away.." will be showing very soon. i will keep you posted..

below is the railer for sliding my days away... it's going to be sssiiiicccckkkkkk!

that wasn't enough? check this 8 minute trailer below!
BLAS IT!!!!!!!!

a few harbors and a bird of prey.

2011-09-05T09:34:00.000-07:00

my buddy jason (whom brought this gem to my attention) is good friends with Tim Stamps. i have seen a pig or two shaped by Tim. this board is TITS (that link is a link to a ton of harbor boards)!!! its a fine line to draw... a bunch of panels and what not. i feel the off set thing is not as easy to pull as it seems. you see a board like this one, and it seems natural...however, back in the day, those panels were used to cover up blemishes in the less than consistent foam. today it's just an homage to the pigs of that era.

here is another one. i saw this one a year or more ago. i am not sure why i didn't post it then... either way, its nice to see this kind of range.

my buddy jason is a falconer.

surfing with friends on the swell of the....

2011-09-02T09:14:00.001-07:00

surfed with my buddy jason and my other buddy cheyne today. its a funny thing...surfing is surfing... i mean, the beginning, middle and end of it is ...you, the wave and what ever you ride. sometimes surfing by yourself is just what the doctor ordered, other times surfing with some buddies and 3000 kooks chasing the (hyped) swell of the millennia is what the doctor ordered. today was the later. fun day, stoked to be around friends!

casanova checks in from oz!

2011-08-31T08:50:00.001-07:00

casanova sent me this via surfapig@live.com: Gnar- Well Uncle Blork would of been proud of this Lithium Knee Spinner. A day spent at my secret local point (the Super Bank) poaching waves with a few of my buddies. The Stoke will be running full and Plentiful for this day forward. This Cooperfish Flex Pig is crazy. I may done got me a few of them toes over with a head cock swosh buckle cutback on her as well. Sick!!!! Buddy Boy Casanova

well, that set up looks super clean!!!!

a mollusk , some pigs, a little beef, and a hop

2011-08-29T09:03:00.001-07:00

mollusk surf shop venice. call them and buy one of these boards. 310.396.1969.

oh... how i love this shop.

hilbers is knocking it out of the park here. $900!!

brian hand crafted the fin.
this one here fucked me up. johnny brought it down, and my head spun. jim phillips made this sucker. if i had the $$$ in my pocket, this chambered, master crafted piece would have been mine!

father's office. burger and a Pliny. done.

a bit of a hodgepodge.

2011-08-25T19:52:00.000-07:00

matt and margaret are going to be at icons of surf sunday. check it out!!!!!

in other parts of the planet...bobby brown was a magnificent shredder. what has happened to surfing?
the clean shit!

the BING FERAL PIG!!!!!!

2011-08-23T11:33:00.000-07:00

This BING pig surfboard is one of 2 surfboard designs Matt Calvani and I (Mike Black), are collaborating on.

The historical significance of BING surfboards and pigs makes this collaboration a dream come true. It is with great pride and honor that I bring my years of exclusive pig riding knowledge to Matt's years of quality craftsmanship.

The Feral Pig comes with a 2" balsa stringer, and a traditional glass on BING D fin.

the bing feral pig fin template!

check the video!
since the time of this video, i have received these photos of the board in progress...below the board is glassed, hotcoated and sanded...just waiting on pinlines!

the eyes of the bing feral pig!
feral pig gets a blue fin!
pin lines added!!!!!!

the finished product!!!!

proper surfing.

2011-08-22T19:07:00.000-07:00

early topanga via firstpoint.

mr. edwards. period.thank you rob for having this on your blog!

sneak peek.

2011-08-22T11:58:00.001-07:00

what happens when you collaborate with a professional, quality oriented, American company, rich in surfing tradition, capable of producing and shipping the best pigs available around the world in a timely manner?

...THIS HAPPENS!!!!!!!

kids go pig!!

2011-08-19T09:04:00.000-07:00

i saw this on ZAP! ...i had to post it here!!!

it reminded me of this gem from mr. E.
i can't wait for my daughter to get her first pig!

friends and surf...NICE!!!!

2011-08-18T09:29:00.000-07:00

surfed fun waves with a grip of friends...can't beat it.

almost walked into this guy on the way down. thanks jason for pointing him out!
it was a fun day. it was great to have it be a light croud day, yet have most of them be friends. jason, phil, tom (the mystic...got the wave of the day!), tim, greg, michael, steve, his wife kaitlyn, and the ambassador of stoke.. STERLING... EPIC!!
thank you tom for saving my neck!!!!!!!

its been a fun august so far.

2011-08-17T08:49:00.000-07:00

i am not sick of this!

dallas sweeping off the bottom!

bobby and chris and another great day!

2011-08-14T11:01:00.000-07:00

i love surfing good waves with friends. bobby and chris make me feel like a weak sissy. they walked a loooonnnnggg way to surf with me. In fact I don't think I have the moral fiber... nay... the gumption. i mean these men walked miles to surf sliders. Shouldn't I be walking miles to slide with these men? fuck it! either way you skin it... we fucking scored!!!!!!!!!!

...another great day with a buddy!!!!!

2011-08-12T12:42:00.001-07:00

scored some clean ones today with my buddy andrew.

pigs in the bush.
a 3 pic sequence of a little insider. i love these guys.

some pelicans.
bay wave.
best seat in the house!
andrew stretching out his back, digging the flag.
how's this rig?
thank you for another great day sliders!

another good day!

2011-08-09T09:02:00.000-07:00

got to love it!

a good day!

2011-08-08T21:47:00.000-07:00

i woke up today at 4:50. i rolled over and slept in. got up at 8:30, did about an hour and a half of chores. went and tutored for two hours, came home kissed the wife, blew a kiss to the sleeping baby, then went and surfed glassy surf.

while getting many nose rides, cut backs, curl shoots...and bottom turns
i couldn't help but think how different life is today than it was 1 year ago.
so stoked to be where i am.
i am not tired of empty right point surf.
cha!!!

pig in the pocket

2011-08-07T08:39:00.000-07:00

my pig was having a blast on these waves. it was one of those days where you would have to try to not be placed perfectly in the pocket. well, i suppose that is the case. i wasn't trying to NOT be in the pocket, i wasn't trying to be in the pocket...i was just surfing...but, this day i was always in the pocket.

how its done.

2011-08-05T09:43:00.000-07:00

the below photo is from the LIFE archives. i'm feeling the guy receiving the frothy warm after surf beverage. he looks either impatient or in pain. perhaps he has a crick in his neck (from sleeping in his car the night before) that he has been ignoring during his entire session. now, he is slightly jealous of the guy ( who has already received his beverage) sitting on the bumper... the guy receiving the frothy after surf beverage is probably thinking "fuck! friend...careful with the suds, hurry this up!...i do thank you for them though." the guy pouring the beverage is probably a scientist, or a dentist. either way, he understands he is at the beach, he values the beverage, and is trying to actually get the liquid part into the guys cup... not giving a shit about the suds, as they are spilling onto the sand. the day is hot. (notice the pooch seeking shade under ther car)

hopefully this is what the surf looked like in the morning prior to them paddling out.