Wednesday, June 29, 2011
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
there is a lesson in here somewhere....
did i think this waves was going to "get in front of me" or "close out" when i paddled for it? sort of. i mean i had my suspicions. i paddled for this bomb. it was a wave that the potato chip but wiggling thruster kids couldn't get to in time. a wide swinger. had i not gone, no one would have. i saw it start to go in front of me. should i have pulled in? it was a tight , narrow tube. what you don't see is the left coming at me. should i just have said "who cares? i'm going to get in this one?" i don't know...i do know what i choose...i choose to stand tall, and feel it for what it was giving me at that time. i held onto that moment for the time i could. i think there are moments in life like this. there are choices... you make one in a split second, and hold onto it for the time you can.
p.s. thanks miles cooper for the sequence!!!!
Monday, June 27, 2011
thanks be to life!!!the sun even popped out for a quick second this morning!!!
check the video!!!!
Sunday, June 26, 2011
Saturday, June 25, 2011
Friday, June 24, 2011
these are the shitty pictures i shot with my phone. i'll be posting up the stupid good pictures soon!some of these pictures seem redundant...i am a junky for empty waves!
you think these guys were stoked?
here is a snap shot from the video below!
A frames and SKEGS!
a moment later.
more perfect peelers and skegs!
the waves had nice form today...very nice form!
relaxing off the botom!
there was some energy in the water!!
the crew walking back up!
Thursday, June 23, 2011
Wednesday, June 22, 2011
thank you miles cooper for your friendship!thank you gene cooper for your craftsmanship!
"uh , yeah... i like this one."
did i mention i like this one!
green and blue
this video has a rad cutback. i choose to blast the "aged film" effect since I had to convert files from mile's fancy camera, essentially they came out slow motion and ultra rastered. fuck it. i figure i'll effect everything except the jelly fish!!!